How much of a hassle to de-scale the S1?

Post by **kdkrone** » Mon Mar 07, 2005 6:16 pm

I am debating whether to install a plumbed-in machine and if I do, it will be an S1. My main concern is mainly about the water treatment necessary, as we live in a hard water area (I have not yet received my test kit so I can't give you numbers) to prevent scale formation (I have read Jim Schulman's long water FAQ: http://www.big-rick.com/coffee/waterfaq.html)

I have begun to do some research on the topic of water because I am interested to know just what it is that we are trying to protect ourselves from with regard to scale formation (I don't have any issues with filtering for chlorine, giadia, cryptosporidia, etc.) and whatever it is that must be done to de-scale, particularly related to a dual boiler machine, the S1 (La Speziale).

I would be most grateful if someone could describe how difficult, if at all, it is to descale a dual boiler machine like the S1. (If anyone wants to participate in the thread that I posted on coffeegeek.com, I would also be grateful. ("How difficult to de-scale an S1 (dual boiler) machine?" http://www.coffeegeek.com/forums/espres ... nes/118861

Thanks
Ken K

chas · Post by **chas** » Tue Mar 08, 2005 6:37 pm

Ken:

I'm not aware of anyone that's tried. I think most everyone has followed Chris Nachtrieb's advice and purchased his softener/carbon filter kit so that scaling does not occur.

http://www.chriscoffee.com/products/hom ... enersystem

Post by **dsherman** » Thu Mar 10, 2005 10:35 pm

Ken -

Ditto Chas' advice. I live in the mountains with well water that is rated, "Extremely Hard". Chris makes it simple and easy to use his softener/filter system.

- D

chas · Post by **chas** » Mon Mar 14, 2005 5:54 pm

The nice thing about the Chris Softener system - as he notes on his site - is the use of standard 10" cannisters. This actually allows you to replace the cartridges with different ones in case your specific needs are slightly different.

In my case I just replaced the original 10micron carbon filter with a 5 micron filter I purchased elsewhere and got two for less than the price of one 10u filter from Chris. You can also get Carbon+Phosphate, Carbon+Lead, etc. The main purpose Chris had in placing the Carbon filter after the Softener is to have something there to trap resin beads from the softener in case any escaped so they don't trash the boiler. Pretty much any filter that can provide this function can be used and may be more appropriate depending on the specific water problems in your area.

I found this site and can recommend them for variety, availability, quick service, and price.

Carbon Based Filters
http://www.water-filters-purifiers-soft ... rs/sdp.asp

The softener cartridge replacements per unit price is also OK, but you have to minimum order 6. For this you might as well try recharging the existing one or purchase them one at a time from Chris. However, here is the link so you can see the cartridge specs.

Softener Cartridge
http://www.water-filters-purifiers-soft ... hopexd.asp

Post by **kdkrone** » Sun Mar 20, 2005 5:10 pm

Thanks, all, for your replies. Clearly the way to go is the filter system and cation exchanger.

Ken K

chas · Post by **chas** » Sun Mar 20, 2005 5:31 pm

Another hint is that you'll need hardness test strips so that you'll know when you need to replace or recharge the softener cartridge. Here is an excellent source at a good price 50 strips for $7.00. Chris used to sell them in small quantities for a higher price, but I no longer see them on his web site.

Here's a "Tiny URL" link the the hach.com site since their link to this page fills the screen in 1600 pixel resolution!

http://tinyurl.com/3z25b

I use a pair of them about ever 4 months. I dip one in the tap water and one in the water from the S1. That way when the S1 reads essentially 0 grains of hardness I can compare it to the tap water and validate that it worked and see how well it is still working.