Insulated boilers

[CLB]

I finally got around to this.
After scrounging a free sample of ceramic wool I read the MSDS, looked up the insulation properties and went with Home Depot aluminum backed fiberglass. I peeled the insulation down to ~3/4" since that's about all the room there is.
I used aluminum tape for gas appliance exhausts to fix the fiberglass in place.

What's this thing?


I also (partially) insulated the group boiler. I wrapped the front part of the boiler as well, being it is easily removable should I rethink and decide I don't want glass up there. For now I've sealed between the group head and the insulation with aluminum tape.
I insulated the top of the boiler by cutting fiberglass squares and nesting them between the various gizmos.

There still seems to be plenty of heat loss to the cup warmer. The heaters kick in less often now but I didn't do any "before" timing.

[fireboss]

What was in the MSDS that made you go for the alum/fiber combo over the ceramic wool? I am asking b/c I would like to insulate my boilers. I can just barely fit my machine under my cabinets and it gets quite hot. ( No cups on top but nice cabinet/plate warmer) I also would like to slow the cycling of the boilers and be a very little bit more energy efficient?

Your boilers look great.

[CLB]

fireboss,

I found that fiberglass is generally determined to be an irritant while the ceramic fibers are determined or suspected (depending on the material) to be carcinogens.

Fiberglass is also a much better thermal insulator.

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Here are some measurements for what they're worth.
My installation may be similar to yours. I have a cabinet 6.0" above the surface of the cup warmer tray. It can be seen on the VII Pride Page.

My countertop, non operating appliances and wall measure 23C.
The center cups on the warmer tray measure 35C.
The bottom of my cabinet measures 35C.
The bottom shelf inside the cabinet measures 29C.
The Vivaldi keypad measures 32C.
The bottom of the VII measures 24C, which should be good for the controller and triac modules.

So... The VII in it's present condition raises my cabinet temperature 12 degrees C.

These were just read with the insulated boiler configuration. I did not take before readings.

[fireboss]

CLB, Thanks for the info. Was it tough to remove and refit the boiler? Any leaks or problems?

[CLB]

I had a little trouble getting the flex line back on the pump drip free. No issues on the internal stuff.

Chas has plenty of instruction on getting the machine apart and back together on this site.
Refitting the side panels is probably the biggest nuisance. By the time the sheet metal is massaged into position it is unlikely the thumbscrews will line up correctly.

As for the boiler:
1) You will have to remove the drain cap and drain the boiler before removal. The drain cap can be seen under the unit. The cap is larger than the clearance hole in the base.
2) The 3 smaller compression fittings for the teflon lines can be tough to loosen. They look like cut stainless threads to cut stainless threads. This is a nice recepie for galling and siezing. You may want to hold the elbow fittings with a vise grip while loosening the compression nuts to avoid breaking a fitting or stressing the boiler. I used a little silicone grease on these threads when reassembling.
3) The brass pressure gauge fitting disconnected easily.
4) Pull the power & return (large white & black) spade lugs that route into the machine.
5) Slide the red sleeves back to expose mini spade connections to the temp sensor. Carefully unplug the connections. They are small, fragile looking and rather tight fitting.
6) Remove the cover bolt that attaches the ground lugs.
7) Remove the single bolt that holds the top end of the boiler to the chassis mid member. This bolt also felt like it had started to gall.
9) Lift the boiler out and insulate. I also cut a disc of insulation to sit under the boiler. You can see an edge in the picture above.
10) Reverse above for re-assembly.
11) Have a cappuccino.

I insulated the group boiler in place. The only thing I disconnected was the pressure gauge fitting. I wrapped the boiler, cut clearance for the pressure tube and refit. I purposely left the high current spade lugs exposed on both boilers. They will fatigue slower with lower temperature changes.
If I had this to do again I wouldn't do anything toward the front of the group.

[Niko]

Refitting the side panels is probably the biggest nuisance.

AMEN to that.