will the machine be able to do pressure profiling
will the brew temperature be in 1 degree or less F increments

Remember, a PID only gets you to the water setpoint accurately. Once you start making shots, brew temp stability is more driven by the overall design (i.e. grouphead design, etc). Anyone who has used Scace device can relate. In other words, don't expect to taste any difference in taste.MonkeyK wrote:Other than the PID, are there any significant internal changes from the V2?
I don't expect better taste from the PID. I am asking questons about the new machine.Endo wrote:Remember, a PID only gets you to the water setpoint accurately. Once you start making shots, brew temp stability is more driven by the overall design (i.e. grouphead design, etc). Anyone who has used Scace device can relate. In other words, don't expect to taste any difference in taste.MonkeyK wrote:Other than the PID, are there any significant internal changes from the V2?
Still 53mm, so nomichael wrote:what is the size of the portafilter or will the new machine be able to use vst baskets
Nomichael wrote:will the machine be able to do pressure profiling
down to tenths of 1F or 1C, if preferred.michael wrote:will the brew temperature be in 1 degree or less F increments
Chris said he had a bad cold when the LaSpaz guy was there and missed what all the home screen icons are for. So still something to be researched.Endo wrote:You hinted at it on the facebook page but didn't get a clear answer.
So what are all these strange looking icons (both in the panel and around the panel). Why do so many look like clocks? What's the "surrender" flag for? Is that for when problems occur?
BothMonkeyK wrote:Will it be available in both pourover and plumbed?
No,other than the PIDs its mostly control and User Interface changes.MonkeyK wrote:Other than the PID, are there any significant internal changes from the V2?
Chris corrected the misperception. It will be a round gauge that just shows steam boiler pressure. Group pressure is shown continuously on the LCD panel (plus shot time) during a shot to the nearest tenth of a bar.chas wrote:George, I am going to kick this off with a question. You replied back to my comment on the Dream Machine FB page yesterday that the pictured machine is only a prototype and the final version will have the V2's rectangle dual manometer rather than the pictured V1 round single manometer. Chris also e-mailed me that the boiler pressure will be shown digitally on the front panel. So is it correct that the boiler pressure will be indicated on both the dual manometer and on the front panel in the production version?
Won't the hot water tap always be exactly the same temperature, ~211 F ? Unless of course you set the PID to below boiling. . .chas wrote: 6) Hot water can be continuous using on/off button like the current generation works OR volumetrically controlled. Hot Water temp is controlled via the Steam boiler PID.
Very probably. Since there is no cold water mixing valve, you are going to set the boiler temp for adequate steaming and then live with whatever you get for hot water temp. For those that want to use hot water regularly but don't make milk drinks, the temp could be turned down to 190F, for example.hamish5178 wrote:Won't the hot water tap always be exactly the same temperature, ~211 F ? Unless of course you set the PID to below boiling. . .chas wrote: 6) Hot water can be continuous using on/off button like the current generation works OR volumetrically controlled. Hot Water temp is controlled via the Steam boiler PID.
I realize this is a little pedantic but some machines have cold-water mixing valves to actually set the temp of the water tap. . .
Boiler pressure sensor? Really? That sounds complicated and unreliable.chas wrote:George, I am going to kick this off with a question. You replied back to my comment on the Dream Machine FB page yesterday that the pictured machine is only a prototype and the final version will have the V2's rectangle dual manometer rather than the pictured V1 round single manometer. Chris also e-mailed me that the boiler pressure will be shown digitally on the front panel. So is it correct that the boiler pressure will be indicated on both the dual manometer and on the front panel in the production version?
Endo, I corrected this with information from Chris in the lengthy post below. There will be a single round manometer (just as shown in the Dream photos) like the S1 but a better quality gauge for steam boiler pressure. Group pressure to the tenth bar will be shown on the LCD panel along with shot time while a shot is in progress. So they are only substituting an on- screen pressure display for an analog pressure gauge. There is no notion that this provides any capability to profile; i.e. manually or otherwise changing the pressure during a shot except of course for the programmable preinfusion.Endo wrote:Boiler pressure sensor? Really? That sounds complicated and unreliable.chas wrote:George, I am going to kick this off with a question. You replied back to my comment on the Dream Machine FB page yesterday that the pictured machine is only a prototype and the final version will have the V2's rectangle dual manometer rather than the pictured V1 round single manometer. Chris also e-mailed me that the boiler pressure will be shown digitally on the front panel. So is it correct that the boiler pressure will be indicated on both the dual manometer and on the front panel in the production version?
Also, I heard many rumors of pressure profiling on other forums. Once again, sounds very complicated to me. I have a hard time believing this. Can you confirm?
That's what I suspected. Pressure profiling sounded like a longshot.chas wrote:Endo, I corrected this with information from Chris in the lengthy post below. There will be a single round manometer (just as shown in the Dream photos) like the S1 but a better quality gauge for steam boiler pressure. Group pressure to the tenth bar will be shown on the LCD panel along with shot time while a shot is in progress. So they are only substituting an on- screen pressure display for an analog pressure gauge. There is no notion that this provides any capability to profile; i.e. manually or otherwise changing the pressure during a shot except of course for the programmable preinfusion.
Sorry incorrect verbiage on my part. The group pressure is, I assume, picked off exactly the same place it is on the current V2 and V2 Mini, just after the output of the pump. So it is giving pump pressure not group boiler pressure. The difference is that they'll attach a digital pressure transducer there instead of the copper capillary tube that currently routes to the analog gauge. I think a better location for the digital transducer would actually be that port on the side of the group where the mechanical preinfusion device attaches, but they need to still leave that open for use on the Mini. So I imagine they'll just use the current location close to the pump on both Dream and Mini-Dream (if that's what they call the tank version) outlet.Endo wrote:That's what I suspected. Pressure profiling sounded like a longshot.chas wrote:Endo, I corrected this with information from Chris in the lengthy post below. There will be a single round manometer (just as shown in the Dream photos) like the S1 but a better quality gauge for steam boiler pressure. Group pressure to the tenth bar will be shown on the LCD panel along with shot time while a shot is in progress. So they are only substituting an on- screen pressure display for an analog pressure gauge. There is no notion that this provides any capability to profile; i.e. manually or otherwise changing the pressure during a shot except of course for the programmable preinfusion.
Still, I'm surprised they added a pressure gauge in the brew boiler. Just seems like something to mislead users (like the current brew gauge). Imagine all the calls? "My gauge only says 7.5 bar and the Nespresso machines go to 15 bar. My machine broken?"![]()
Besides that, these sensors are very unreliable. If your are not pressure profiling, then what's the point (except to verify your pre-infusion settings). Seems very silly to me.
Like you, I thought they would add the pressure transducer on the grouphead. But teeing it off the pump is good enough. I assume it will be something like this:chas wrote: Sorry incorrect verbiage on my part. The group pressure is, I assume, picked off exactly the same place it is on the current V2 and V2 Mini, just after the output of the pump. So it is giving pump pressure not group boiler pressure. The difference is that they'll attach a digital pressure transducer there instead of the copper capillary tube that currently routes to the analog gauge. I think a better location for the digital transducer would actually be that port on the side of the group where the mechanical preinfusion device attaches, but they need to still leave that open for use on the Mini. So I imagine they'll just use the current location close to the pump on both Dream and Mini-Dream (if that's what they call the tank version) outlet.
The only change Chris mentioned was the all red drip tray if you get the Ferrari red model.Endo wrote:Will the drip tray be fixed so a proper drain can be attached?
Since hot water is dispensed by steam pressure, the steam boiler temperature must be above the boiling point for water to be dispensed. Given the absence of a mixing valve, there will always be flash boiling when water exits the hot water tap and it will always be just below the boiling point.chas wrote:For those that want to use hot water regularly but don't make milk drinks, the temp could be turned down to 190F, for example.
It may not come out very fast but it should flow. If there is enough pressure built up to close the vacuum breaker there will be enough to start pushing it out. If not then air will flow into the vacuum breaker and let water start siphoning out. When the pump kicks in that should force the rest of the required water out.Richard wrote:Since hot water is dispensed by steam pressure, the steam boiler temperature must be above the boiling point for water to be dispensed. Given the absence of a mixing valve, there will always be flash boiling when water exits the hot water tap and it will always be just below the boiling point.chas wrote:For those that want to use hot water regularly but don't make milk drinks, the temp could be turned down to 190F, for example.
Unless I'm missing something, of course, which is always possible.
Endo wrote:I think we need to change the topic to "Ask Chas".
Here's another question: What's the purpose of the group heater cover, and is it made of chromed plastic as it appears?
The new Silvia has the same thing. I'm actually almost sure it's chromed plastic. Some people won't like that since it hides some nice "real" metal. They may claim it keeps in some heat.chas wrote:At first I didn't know what you were talking about after not having an S1 for almost three years. However, I compared the Dream photos with others of the V1 and V2 groups and now I see the new "collar" around the top of the group that you mentioned. I don't see how a part in that location could be plastic. I assume chromed brass like the rest of the group, but I'll ask.
Chris says he's pretty sure it's not chromed plastic, but he's not really sure what it's made of.Endo wrote:The new Silvia has the same thing. I'm actually almost sure it's chromed plastic. Some people won't like that since it hides some nice "real" metal. They may claim it keeps in some heat.chas wrote:At first I didn't know what you were talking about after not having an S1 for almost three years. However, I compared the Dream photos with others of the V1 and V2 groups and now I see the new "collar" around the top of the group that you mentioned. I don't see how a part in that location could be plastic. I assume chromed brass like the rest of the group, but I'll ask.
I never found Chris to be a S1 fanboy like us. It's all about business with him and his gang. That's fine. We'll keep guessing.
YesEndo wrote:Will the warranty still be 2 years on this new model?
No, exact same drip tray, except for the Ferrari red machine which will have a red drip tray. (One the S1V1 and S1V2 the drip tray was always black regardless of the color of the side panels.)Endo wrote:Will the drip tray be fixed so a proper drain can be attached?
I just heard from Chris. He went into the showroom this morning and confirmed that the new group collar is metal and NOT plastic.chas wrote:Chris says he's pretty sure it's not chromed plastic, but he's not really sure what it's made of.Endo wrote:The new Silvia has the same thing. I'm actually almost sure it's chromed plastic. Some people won't like that since it hides some nice "real" metal. They may claim it keeps in some heat.chas wrote:At first I didn't know what you were talking about after not having an S1 for almost three years. However, I compared the Dream photos with others of the V1 and V2 groups and now I see the new "collar" around the top of the group that you mentioned. I don't see how a part in that location could be plastic. I assume chromed brass like the rest of the group, but I'll ask.
I never found Chris to be a S1 fanboy like us. It's all about business with him and his gang. That's fine. We'll keep guessing.
Wow. I'm surprised. Must be a pricey. If it's metal, it might have some good heat retention properties to it. Perhaps I can add it on to my machine to warm up the cold nose.chas wrote: I just heard from Chris. He went into the showroom this morning and confirmed that the new group collar is metal and NOT plastic.
There won't be enough pressure for the vacuum breaker to close at 190F, it closes after the water boils and starts releasing steam, that's how pressure builds. A boiler full of hot water won't just close the valve. . .chas wrote:It may not come out very fast but it should flow. If there is enough pressure built up to close the vacuum breaker there will be enough to start pushing it out. If not then air will flow into the vacuum breaker and let water start siphoning out. When the pump kicks in that should force the rest of the required water out.Richard wrote:Since hot water is dispensed by steam pressure, the steam boiler temperature must be above the boiling point for water to be dispensed. Given the absence of a mixing valve, there will always be flash boiling when water exits the hot water tap and it will always be just below the boiling point.chas wrote:For those that want to use hot water regularly but don't make milk drinks, the temp could be turned down to 190F, for example.
Unless I'm missing something, of course, which is always possible.