Newly acquired Vivaldi, what to check?

[Bob_McBob]

I recently acquired an original Vivaldi from mid-2006 that I want to test and check over before use. I haven't been able to pull a shot with it yet, but it heats properly, sounds good when running, and I don't see any leaks or obvious signs of damage internally. Unfortunately, it only came with a pod adapter, so I can't really try it out until I replace this with the proper parts.

Is there anything in particular I should check, or any parts I should order for standard maintenance replacement (gaskets, valves, vacuum breaker, etc.)? I am ordering some bits and pieces from Chris' Coffee, and I don't want to miss anything minor because I live in Canada and shipping is rather expensive.

Here's what I'm getting:

Bottomless portafilter with double and triple baskets
New group gasket
Group shower screen set
Brass dispersion block for ground coffee
Cheapie 53mm convex tamper

[Endo]

I would take it all apart first, THEN order parts.

I'm sure you'll find extra things you need once you disassemble for descaling and general cleaning (broken bits, steam boiler gasket, brew boiler gasket, etc).

[chas]

Since group gaskets are cheap and shipping is high, I'd recommend you get three.

[slo]

Hello Chris. Congrats on the Vivaldi.

I agree with Chas, order a few group gaskets.

I agree with Endo, take it apart, or at least remove the major parts to have a look at the insides. The pump seals, the boilers for scale buildup and the wiring in general. But really, for a small part, if you ask Tynnetta, she will ship it via USPS which is not that expensive.

If you are ordering a dispersion block, be aware that there are 2 models available. One thinner one thicker with different hole pattern. You can see them here; s1v1/index.php.

With the triple basket I have never felt the need for thinner block, but with a double basket it was limiting me to 16.5 grams dose maximum.

Have fun with and do not hesitate to ask for help.

Sylvain

[Bob_McBob]

I would normally hold off on ordering parts and do a more thorough check, but I was already about to order parts for my regular machine, and I don't really want to delay that. I have it set up and running off a Flo-Jet in ECON mode. As far as basic operation goes it seems to be just fine. It comes up to temp, everything operates as it should, the pump sounds good, the pressure gauge is fine, the vac breaker seals without hesitation, etc. The steam boiler fan is pretty noisy, but I'm not sure whether it's normal or needs the mounting adjustment.

It's unfortunate I can't actually pull any shots with it right now. I did remove the pod adapter parts, which were dirty, but not filthy and encrusted like I've seen with many used machines. I suspect it was never actually removed and cleaned, but I'm pretty sure the machine wasn't used very much, either. It was apparently in storage for the last year or two. I will be descaling the boilers later today, but I have to unplug it now so I can get my caffeine fix with the Duetto

I assume I should be asking for the thinner dispersion block?

[slo]

I assume I should be asking for the thinner dispersion block?

Actually, it is my belief (just an educated belief since I have no data to back this up) that the thicker dispersion block will have more thermal inertia and once up to temperature will be more stable. Also the dispersion hole pattern is better for me. But it is your call...

[Endo]

I thought Chris only sold the thin disk.

My thick disk came with my machine (which came directly from Italy and is simply labelled as "Vivaldi" rather than "Vivaldi2"). I ordered the thin disk from Chris.

I switch them every week for cleaning purposes and to be honest, I can't tell which one is in there. In other words, 10g of extra metal and thermal mass is WAY down on the taste radar. The pattern seems to have almost no affect as well, since the flow is totally changed once it goes through both screens. I'm sure they changed to a circular pattern to simply easy manufacture and save cost. The thinner disk saves on brass raw material cost too.

[Bob_McBob]

I e-mailed a couple days ago with my list of parts to order and never heard back, so I guess I'll be waiting until Monday now, and another week or two for shipping

I asked a couple of Canadian La Spaziale dealers about parts. One of them doesn't sell parts, and the other (Caffe Tech, which imports from Chris' Coffee) sells everything for more than twice the price it goes for in the States. $16 for a group gasket? $15 for a double basket? No thanks

[slo]

I also sometime have issue with e-mail not being answered from CC. Do not know why that is?

There is a place in TO; http://www.astramgroup.com/EspressoMach ... aziale.htm. They sell part for La Spaziale. I have not bought any part for the Vivaldi from them but I have bought parts for my Macap Grinder and there price was fair. You may give them a try.

I wanted to try to get group gaskets from them but have not gotten to it yet. If you do let me know there price, please.

My thick disk came with my machine (which came directly from Italy and is simply labelled as "Vivaldi" rather than "Vivaldi2"). I ordered the thin disk from Chris.

My machine came through CC and came with a thick block. I had assumed, like you that all newer machine came with the thinner block but they do not!

Without going into an argument about temperature stability, water dispersion and being able to taste a difference, since the thicker block is available and that there does not seem to be any argument against it (provided that a triple basket is available), I am very happy that I have that one.

[Bob_McBob]

Thanks, I'll e-mail them for a quote. Do I need the paper shim shown in the diagram (part #9)? Also, is the bolt that's currently installed okay for the regular dispersion blocK?

[chas]

I e-mailed a couple days ago with my list of parts to order and never heard back, so I guess I'll be waiting until Monday now, and another week or two for shipping

I asked a couple of Canadian La Spaziale dealers about parts. One of them doesn't sell parts, and the other (Caffe Tech, which imports from Chris' Coffee) sells everything for more than twice the price it goes for in the States. $16 for a group gasket? $15 for a double basket? No thanks

If you just generically used that Contact form, you should try again directly sending an e-mail to mary@chriscoffee.com

[slo]

My machine does not have the shim!? The parts catalog for the S1 does not show it. s1v2/V2%20Manuals/RICAMBI%20S1%20NEW.pdf

Again form the S1 parts catalog, it seems that the 25mm bolt will fit both type of block. I can only confirm that with the 25mm it is good for the thick block. Endo could confirm if he had to shorten the bolt for the thinner block.

[Bob_McBob]

If you just generically used that Contact form, you should try again directly sending an e-mail to mary@chriscoffee.com

I sent it directly to mary@chriscoffee.com on Tuesday around noon, because I've ordered from them a couple times already and know the drill about Canadian orders.

Got the prices from Astra:

1086521 SHOWER HOLDER $ 69.00
1186871 FILTER HOLDER GASKET $ 3.00
1081046 SHOWER SCREEN 49-52MM $ 15.00
(2 PIECES)
1160277 2-CUP FILTER 14 GRAMS $ 10.80
1160278 BLIND FILTER $ 6.00

Mostly seems reasonable other than the dispersion block. Is it really a $70 part?! I read a reply on HB saying it was something like $20 from CC.

[Endo]

Again form the S1 parts catalog, it seems that the 25mm bolt will fit both type of block. I can only confirm that with the 25mm it is good for the thick block. Endo could confirm if he had to shorten the bolt for the thinner block.

Yes. The bolt fits both blocks. You might want to order a spare bolt too. They can get lost down the sink if your'e not careful!

Mostly seems reasonable other than the dispersion block. Is it really a $70 part?! I read a reply on HB saying it was something like $20 from CC.

I think I paid $15 for mine 2 years ago from CC. Seems like a mistake to me.

[Bob_McBob]

I e-mailed them to ask if the price is a mistake. Looking at the parts diagram, there is a third dispersion block option (part #641) that also appears to be used in other machines. What is this for?



641 PORTA DOCCETTA (???)
1941 PORTADOCCETTE IN OTTONE H=11 (thin dispersion block)
1942 PORTADOCCETTE IN OTTONE H=15 (thick dispersion block)

[Endo]

Could it be the pod adapter dispersion block?

[Bob_McBob]

Could it be the pod adapter dispersion block?

Based on a more general La Spaziale parts catalogue, it seems to be the dispersion block used in the professional group.

[Bob_McBob]

For future reference, these are the parts for the pod adapter kit. Note that the pod screw is different from the standard one, so I'll have to get one of those as well. No word back from Astra or CC, unfortunately.

[Bob_McBob]

E-mailed Mary again, and I still haven't heard back. I guess it's time to give them a call. I really dislike making such complicated orders over the phone, though.

Astra never answered my question about the oddly high dispersion block price, either. I'm not having much luck getting this machine up and running.

[slo]

Hey Chris.

Ordering from CC for us up north is not always the easiest but CC offers stuff that no one else has...

Here is an exert from the web site, you may have read it (or not).

Canadian and International Customers

We ship most parts and accessories via United States Postal Service (USPS) using a Flat Rate USPS Envelope or Box. However, there are some exceptions:

Free Shipping does not apply to orders shipped via USPS.

We do not ship Espresso Machines via USPS.

We do not ship any porcelain cups due to the breakage factor.


For questions regarding USPS shipping; please call Tynnetta at 518-935-4588 or email tynnetta@chriscoffee.com.

Customer is responsible for all shipping, customs fees, brokerage fees and any other delivery fees associated with delivery of the package.

Instructions to Place An Order

For Canadian Customers: Add the items to the cart, check out, and complete the Billing Address section. Use the additional instructions box below the billing section to enter the information for USPS shipping. Indicate the shipping method as USPS and choose the appropriate USPS Priority Mail Flat Rate Box that will accommodate your order (Small, Medium, or Large). Disregard the shipping amount and proceed with check out. Your order will be processed, credit card charged accordingly and shipped. USPS will email you a transaction number for your shipment.

It can be found here http://www.chriscoffee.com/policy#16

I had never read this before. CC site is full of "dark corners"!

I have placed and order today for triple baskets and stuff. I love the triple basket and I will not take the chance of it disappearing on me. So I ordered 2 spares.

I followed the instructions posted above and disregarded the $97.00 UPS shipping charge !!!!! I hope that it works!

I know that for you it is not so easy because you want replacement parts... but I thought that I pass on the info.

For AstraM, E-mail them again. I had no issue with getting a response. Maybe the e-mail got lost to no fault of anyone...

[chas]

E-mailed Mary again, and I still haven't heard back. I guess it's time to give them a call. I really dislike making such complicated orders over the phone, though.

Astra never answered my question about the oddly high dispersion block price, either. I'm not having much luck getting this machine up and running.

The CC contact page actually says: For Home Espresso related questions E-mail: mary@chriscoffee.com or scott@chriscoffee.com

Have you tried Scott? Maybe Mary's on vacation.

[Bob_McBob]

Trying that next. I feel like a bit of an idiot sending the same e-mail over and over again. I should probably just do the online order and add the unlisted parts I need in the comments field. I hope the dispersion block is still only $20.

[Bob_McBob]

I heard back from Astra, confirming that yes, $69 is the correct list price for the dispersion block. They also don't have it in stock.

Still no word from CC. I am going to place an order online and note the extra parts I need in the comments. I'm still trying to figure out a part for my other machine (Izzo Alex Duetto), because the steam wand leaks and CC doesn't carry anything to rebuild it other than the full $70 valve replacement

[chas]

I have to believe that Chris Coffee can do you better on that dispersion block. If you look at the pod kit, it is only $60 and it includes the screens, screw, dispersion disk, and basket. If you buy just the screens and basket they are $20 for both. So there's no way the dispersion block should be more than $40 and it should be less since the pod kit is a specialty item.

Also, where does it leak? You might ask Chris Coffee to send you a complete set of gaskets. I think there are about 4 and just replace them all. It's really easy to disassemble the steam arm. The likelihood that you need to replace the arm is low.

[Bob_McBob]

I have to believe that Chris Coffee can do you better on that dispersion block. If you look at the pod kit, it is only $60 and it includes the screens, screw, dispersion disk, and basket. If you buy just the screens and basket they are $20 for both. So there's no way the dispersion block should be more than $40 and it should be less since the pod kit is a specialty item.

Also, where does it leak? You might ask Chris Coffee to send you a complete set of gaskets. I think there are about 4 and just replace them all. It's really easy to disassemble the steam arm. The likelihood that you need to replace the arm is low.

I'll report back with the price whenever I hear anything.

I don't want to stray off topic since this is a Vivaldi forum, but you can read about the steam wand problem here. It's dripping at the tip (40ml/hour) the whole time the steam boiler is at pressure. I asked CC about parts to fix it, and they told me they only carry the entire valve assembly, which apparently costs $67.70.

[chas]

I talked to Jason Verenini, CC's ace S1 tech about your problem. He says to e-mail him at service@chriscoffee.com

[Bob_McBob]

I did hear back from Jason, actually. $18.50 for the dispersion block. Where on earth did that $69 price come from?

No re-build parts available for my Duetto steam wand, unfortunately.

[Endo]

I did hear back from Jason, actually. $18.50 for the dispersion block. Where on earth did that $69 price come from?

Yup. That's what I paid.

[Bob_McBob]

Well, everything is ordered, so hopefully I should be pulling shots by next week

Now to build a portafilter pressure gauge...

[Endo]

Now to build a portafilter pressure gauge...

Read these posts for a couple of options:

http://www.s1cafe.com./viewtopic.php?f=57&t=1125

http://www.s1cafe.com./viewtopic.php?f=26&t=1380

[Bob_McBob]

643 VITA TE 5X25
4571 VITE INOX TS 5x20

What's the difference between these two screws, other than the length? Will the 20mm screw work with the regular dispersion block? Unfortunately EPNW is out of the 25mm screw for two weeks. I ordered the thin-style dispersion block, which is 4mm shorter than the regular one, so I assume it should probably be okay for length.

[Bob_McBob]

After comparing the screw installed in my machine with photos of the regular screw online, it would appear that the two are completely different. The standard screw is a cap screw, but the pod adapter uses a flat socket cap screw like this:



EPNW is out of the regular 25mm screws, and my CC order already shipped, so I can't ask them to include one I was offered a 20mm version of the screw instead. I guess I will take it and hope it fits. How annoying to be messed up by a $1 screw after ordering all those parts.

[chas]

You can try finding this in your local hardware store:

I went over to my local hardware store to see what they had today, and found a pretty good replacement. It's a stainless button head socket cap screw, part number 72057, from Midwest Fastener Corporation. The size is 10-32x3/4". It's maybe a millimeter shorter than the stock screw, which is 2cm long, but you still have plenty of thread. They're driven by a 1/8" allen wrench which is very easy to use under the group. The profile is much lower. It barely extends below the recessed area of the screen. You could probably grind it down a little more, but it's great just the way it is. It has a gently rounded head that tapers right down to the screen so it may prevent channeling in that area.

[slo]

Hello Chris.

Still looking for parts!

The Screw you need is a 5mm screw/bolt (M5) that is 20 or 25 mm long. Stainless is mandatory here.
You can get the bolt with either Hex socket or Button head. Check here for pictures: http://www.instockfasteners.com/PRODUCT ... screws.asp
You could order it online ior get it at the local hardware store for less than $0.50. The button head (which is desirable) would be harder to find locally.

Push comes to shove, I have one of those (Hex socket) in my garage. If you can't find one, I can mail one to you.

and found a pretty good replacement. It's a stainless button head socket cap screw, part number 72057, from Midwest Fastener Corporation. The size is 10-32x3/4".

Although the thread dimensions of the 10-32 (UNF) is very close to the M5 thread it is not exactly the same.
10-32 Nominal dia. 0.1969 inch, thread pitch 0.03125 inch
M5 nominal dia. 0.1900 inch, thread pitch 0.31496 inch
It is more than likely that a 10-32 screw would fit a M5 nut (bore) because they are so close but there is a chance that some threads that are at opposite tolerance limits will not fit. The deeper the engagement the more chance of interference.

M5 screws/bolts are readily available. Don't take a chance to mess up the threads.

[chas]

If you go with the hex head bolt, I highly recommend that you get a ball end hex wrench for it. With those you don't need to be in perfect alignment with the bolt head in order to engage the hex bolt. That's a nice feature since the bolt is upside down and you don't have a good line of sight to use to get the angle perfect.

[slo]

Reading Chas post I realised that I sort of implied that there would be only 2 choices. Of course there are more bolt head choices that can be selected; regular hex head, low profile, pan head, .... As long as you get M5 theeads and between 20 and 25mm length of threads you should be OK.

In fact one of my previous suggestion, the hex socket head, is not good because it would protrude a lot.

I thought that I should clarify my post because indeed i could have been misleading.

[chas]

The style called "Button Head" is the way to go.

[Bob_McBob]

The parts from CC arrived on Tuesday, and the screw from EP showed up today. Got it all assembled and installed just now. I was surprised by how poorly the gasket fit until I read you need to let the machine heat up before it will seat properly. Tried that, and the portafilter locks in nicely at 90 degrees without too much effort now.

I am running the machine straight off a Flojet right now, which is obviously not ideal. The pump sometimes makes sort of a squealing, straining noise after it's pumped an ounce or two. It's worse when the boilers are cold. I will take a video tomorrow afternoon. Any idea what it might be?

I pulled a couple of shots that seemed to flow okay, but I didn't bother to taste them. Next I need to install the accumulator and check the pressure and temperature offset. It could probably also do with a descaling. I backflushed with Cafiza a couple of times, and it seemed to like it. I'm sure the previous owners never did a detergent backflush.

[Bob_McBob]

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XccF4LH0Jww

[chas]

I don't hear anything other than normal S1 noises. I do hear what you are referring to, still normal.

[Bob_McBob]

You might have to turn up your sound, because the Flojet is fairly loud. The first water draw sounds normal. I'm talking about the squealing noise the second time. It even looks like the flow dies down before it should.

[slo]

I do not know what that sound is but my Vivaldi certainly does not sound like the second shot!

Could it be some cavitation from the Flojet not following and the air bubbles being filled by steam? Just a guess, based on the fact that it occurs on the second shot.

[Bob_McBob]

I also wondered about cavitation, especially with the reduced flow rate at the end. I've never had any experience with it before, and I can't find a recording of what it sounds like in an espresso machine. It seems to be described as either buzzing or squealing. I just want to be sure it's not some other major plumbing problem I need to address.

I'll probably head to Home Depot tonight to get some fittings to plumb in the accumulator and make the pressure gauge, so hopefully it will go away once everything is set up correctly.

[Bob_McBob]

I went to Home Depot, but as usual they either didn't have the correct parts or were out of stock. They didn't even have 3/8" OD tubing! I transferred the hardware from my E61 portafilter pressure gauge and found that the pump is only running at 6.75 bar off the Flojet. I won't bother to adjust it until I can go to a different Home Depot and buy the parts to get the accumulator plumbed in on Saturday. Then I just need to wait for my cheap thermocouples to arrive so I can set the temperature offset.

I'll be giving it a good descale this weekend. Anything else I should do? I'm still wondering about that squealing noise.

[Bob_McBob]

I think the squealing is caused by a bad pump. I tried adjusting the OPV, but it made no difference. I tried descaling the machine with the same result. I removed the pump from the motor and found some damp black/white residue and spots of rust on the shaft, so it must have been leaking a bit. Luckily the motor seems to be running fine and not rusted. I can turn the shaft on the pump okay, and it maintains constant pressure, but it sounds dreadful when it's running. Is there any other possible cause I could eliminate?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_ILLmCO_vZk

[slo]

I guess you have been fortunate in your misfortune.

I am not totally sure but usually these pumps have a mechanical rotary seal that has a carbon material ring that is pressed by a spring against a metal face. These seal will wear and produce some carbon dust. This could explain the black. The white could be some lubricant and the wet is water starting to leak. The mechanical seals do not start leaking slowly usually. They tend to start leaking hard.

If the seal is a rubber ring making a dynamic seal around the shaft, which costs a lot less and last much less, than again the black could be the rubber wearing out. A rubber dynamic seal may start leaking slowly or can blow out quickly.

Either way the leak was slow for you which is why I say that you are fortunate. If you can order the seal and do the maintenance yourself do so. If you cannot, order a pump as soon as possible. Do not hope that the leak will stay minor. It will not! The motor will cost much more to replace.

[chas]

On the bright side, if you either repair the pump yourself or buy a new one and it doesn't cure the noise, you'll have done something that needed doing anyway.

You can search for leaking pumps and should be able to find a series of posts with photos of what a leaking pump looks like and the damage it can also do to the motor. It would be good for you to compare those photos with what you are seeing.

BTW: What's your serial number? There were a couple of early fixes to the machine. I can probably figure out if yours is before of after those mods and then we can have you check to ensure yours has them all.

[Bob_McBob]

I checked again and it's basically all a light grey powder, so it must have dried since I took it apart. The pump shows some signs of moisture at the bottom, but the residue only extends as far as the little drain hole inside the motor, so the motor itself will be fine once I wipe it out. It doesn't look anywhere near as bad as some of the horror photos I've seen of leaking Vivaldi pumps.

I will be replacing the pump. It costs $139 at CC, but they can be purchased for significantly less ($90) in the UK, and shipping is the same either way. I'm not sure if the 20% higher flow rate on 60hz would be an issue, though.

If anyone is curious, the pulsing noise is caused by the Flojet it's feeding from at the right turning on and off. It causes a 0.5 bar pressure spike every time. This is why many people recommend using an accumulator for stable pressure.

This machine isn't very old for an original Vivaldi. The serial is 253487, year 2006.

[chas]

Ah, I thought you were talking about the Flo-jet noise. If you're talking about the high pitched noise, how much different does it sound when you are actually pulling a shot? To me it sounds just like the noise my S1 made - just more of it. It sounds more like - especially with the PF off - some of the water is flashing to steam and hissing as it enters the group. If so, I would guess it would be much reduced when pulling a shot. I don't think that noise has anything to do with the pump.

[Bob_McBob]

It sounds the same when I'm pulling a shot. If you look closely in the video, you'll see the brew boiler isn't actually up to temperature, so it can't be flash boiling. It's a very loud squealing noise that definitely isn't normal. CC told me they think the pump is shot.

[Bob_McBob]

I finally got around to installing a new pump in this machine. I adjusted it to 9 bar with my portafilter pressure gauge simulating shot flow, and I've been able to pull some decent shots, so I assume it's installed correctly. Unfortunately, I am still getting the screeching noise from my videos under some circumstances. It doesn't ever happen when I am pulling a shot or not using a lot of water. It mostly seems to happen when I draw enough water through the group that the boiler temperature starts to drop a lot and the accumulator tank gets low. It's kind of frustrating that it's still happening even after I spent $140 on a new pump (though it did need replacing).

Does anyone have any further ideas for what might be causing the noise?

[Endo]

I'm pretty certain this noise is a louder version of the "whoosh" discussed in this topic:

http://www.s1cafe.com./viewtopic.php?f= ... 18&p=18156

My best guess is it is caused by the restricted flow through the gicleur. (The Mini's don't have this sound since no restrictor is needed for the lower flow vibe pump). Kinda ironic.....you must choose your preferred noise....vibe buzz or gicleur screech.

Your noise seems worse than others. I suspect each noise is slightly different depending on the natural frequency of the systems itself. You are just unlucky I guess. If you want to try and fix it, you might want to try damping the long vertical tube, swapping tubes, or porting the gicleur slightly.

[Bob_McBob]

It does seem to come on in a similar way to the recordings from the thread you linked. I could live with a whooshing like that, but I'm still getting the awful screeching noise from my videos with the previous pump. I tried damping the long tube with my hand and some rubber material, but it didn't change the sound in the slightest. Do you think there would be any benefit to disassembling the flow meter assembly and making sure everything is okay with the gicleur? I'm not sure if there are any special precautions I need to take with respect to draining water beforehand...

On the plus side, I have been able to pull some pretty decent shots with the machine, and it generally doesn't screech at me unless I run a lot of water through the group by itself. Steam power is pretty amazing -- very, very dry. I am not concerned about having spent the money to replace the pump, because it was leaking internally (not enough to damage the motor in any way) and had fairly obvious flow problems you can even see in the videos I posted.

[Endo]

I tried damping the long tube with my hand and some rubber material, but it didn't change the sound in the slightest.

Others have said the same as well. Perhaps the noise is generated entirely from the jet itself (no tube resonance?) Or perhaps it's a disturbance in the flow around another obstruction or sharp bend?

Do you think there would be any benefit to disassembling the flow meter assembly and making sure everything is okay with the gicleur?

I think it might be worth a trying to swap some of the parts from where the sound appears to be coming from. Perhaps try another tube and gicleur combo if it's relatively cheap? Maybe you can ask Chris Coffee if you can try it out and send it back if it does nothing?

[Bob_McBob]

Today I swapped the vac breaker and rinsed out the steam boiler pretty thoroughly with siphoning (I gather the previous owners never used it and it was a little funky inside after descaling). Got it set up on the kitchen counter and pulled a few shots earlier this evening. It seems to be running pretty much perfectly other than the screeching when I draw a lot of water through the group. In normal use pulling shots and doing portafilter wiggles and backflushes, I don't ever hear the noise. I am not sure what starting temperature to use. I have a datalogging thermometer, but if I slip it under the edge of the portafilter it just sprays water everywhere when it comes up to pressure.

Some observations from a Duetto user: I don't mind the 53mm portafilter at all. I don't know if it has any implications on the taste of the shot, but stuff like grind distribution is dead simple. Steaming is really, really nice. Very dry steam. The valve on the steam wand is great -- instant on, instant off with no possibility of overtightening or undertightening. The shape of the steam wand and and the way it sticks out from the machine is better for positioning a pitcher than it is on the Duetto. The fan that whines the whole time the steam boiler is turned on is pretty awful, though. I know this has been improved, but I'm not sure what it sounds like on current machines.

I will see about disassembling the flow meter to check the gicleur and filter for scale and other detritus when I have a spare moment. For now I am testing it in the kitchen for a few days. I doubt it will replace my Duetto, but it has been fun fixing it up, and it's interesting to see how things would have been if I'd gone with a Vivaldi instead. I have a wild notion about taking the Vivaldi to work, but that seems a little crazy...

[Louis]

Some observations from a Duetto user: I don't mind the 53mm portafilter at all. I don't know if it has any implications on the taste of the shot, but stuff like grind distribution is dead simple. Steaming is really, really nice. Very dry steam. The valve on the steam wand is great -- instant on, instant off with no possibility of overtightening or undertightening. The shape of the steam wand and and the way it sticks out from the machine is better for positioning a pitcher than it is on the Duetto. The fan that whines the whole time the steam boiler is turned on is pretty awful, though. I know this has been improved, but I'm not sure what it sounds like on current machines.

Chris, nice to know, as I've played with the idea of the Duetto vs Vivaldi for a few months before deciding (see my long thread on HB: http://www.home-barista.com/advice/rese ... 14939.html). If you don't mind, I would add a reference to your post on my original HB thread, to complete the picture for future buyers, also undecided between the Duetto and the S1 (or you could of course do so yourself if you prefer).

The fan whines on the current version disapeared with the fan itself...

The S1 is currently using a dual-control SSR instead of the original TRIACs, which needed additional cooling in the 110V version because of higher power dissipation on lower voltage (original 240V didn't need one, it was retrofitted).

If you do a quick search, you should find how to raise the fan from the machine's floor; this will lower the noise.

[Endo]

The S1 is currently using a dual-control SSR instead of the original TRIACs, which needed additional cooling in the 110V version because of higher power dissipation on lower voltage (original 240V didn't need one, it was retrofitted).

Any word if this SSR will be retrofittable?

[chas]

From what I was told by Chris' techs last year it should be retrofittable though it requires a new wiring harness to connect it to the controller board. So you have the cost of the SSR and the harness plus whatever hassles you might have to remove other parts to get at everything. I also don't know if it requires drilling new mounting holes or whether it uses existing holes.

[Endo]

Ooooooh! This sounds like a fun project.

My machine is approaching 3 years so I thought I'd strip it down for fun anyway (check the boilers for scale, poke around the flowmeter, etc). Besides, my wife says I have too many coffee machines and grinders in the kitchen, so I may need to make space anyway.

I'll contact Chris for prices on the SSR kit as well and see if they have a retrofit guide.