More 20 amp questions

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mswanson

More 20 amp questions

Post by mswanson »

I recently had a new house built, and I specificly asked for 20 amp circuits in the kitchen. When I looked at the panel, they have a 20 amp breaker but the plugs are the standard 3 prong at the outlet.

My question is this. Should I get the 15 amp model and simply switch it to 20 amps in order to use the existing 3 prong outlets, or get the 20 amp model and change the outlet to the correct plug type?

Also, does the S1 need to be the only equipment on the 20 amp circuit or can I also run other applicances on it, such as my Mini, etc.

Thanks. Hopefully I can be another guy in the midwest with a S1 soon!
PatRi

Post by PatRi »

- Usually in newer home, kitchen receptacle have the upper outlet and lower outlet independent. That means that going to this receptacle there should be two breakers in your electrical box . In that case each outlet can carry the 20 amp of its respective breaker (obviously you should not use a divider on this) such that the S1 is alone on its circuit.
- Also check on the wires of that receptacle if it says 12 gauge then it is OK, because sometime you get 14 gauge wires which should not be used on 20 AMP dedicated circuit.
IF both are not there, then you do not have really 20 AMP.

Obviously review that with an electrician because it does depend on your local code

You do not mention about your requirements, but I can tell you that I installed mine as 15 AMP because I have 14 Gauge wires, and it never was an issue. Several cappuccinos in a row without problems. I started like that, thinking if I need it, I will have 12 Gauge installed, but it is not even close to a requirement. So I guess from my experience you need pretty intensive use for the 20 amp to make a difference.



hope it helps, Pat
Last edited by PatRi on Thu Jul 06, 2006 2:42 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Grant

Post by Grant »

The wiring in my one year old house appears the same as yours.

The wall sockets were the standard 15 AMP. The circuit breakers however were 20 AMP. I tested both plugs and confirmed they were on the same circuit. I purchased a 20 AMP wall socket. Switch off the breaker. I then replaced the wall sockets. I plugged in my S1 and it worked fine.

It appears that it is not uncommon for newer houses to have 20AMP fuses for the kitchen and other rooms as well, and 15AMP wall sockets. I spoke with an electrician who informed me that I would have no problem with the exchange. I have not had any problems because of the change to 20AMP.

The circuit breaker is also easy to change from 15AMP to 20AMP. You have to purchase the same brand of circuit breaker as you are replacing. Brands are not interchangeable. If you do have to change circuit breakers, you should check with someone local that is knowledgeable about your wiring.
TruthBrew

Post by TruthBrew »

If you can verify that you have 12 gauge wiring, then I would go to your hardware store and buy a 20amp recepticle and swap them out. It's very quick and easy. Then simply by the 20amp configured/corded S1.

If you only have 14 gauge wiring or can't verify the gauge, i'd buy the 15 amp configured S1. You can always switch it later.

I run both my grinder and machine on the same dedicated 20amp circuit, but nothing else. I haven't had any problems. I have to imagine that you'd need to have both boilers going with the machine still warming up, the pump going, and the grinder grinding to possibly run into any issues.
mswanson

Post by mswanson »

Ok, this sounds good. When the house was built, I could see exactly what was on each circuit before drywall went up. Two sockets (a total of 4 outlets) are on one 20 amp. I currently have just my grinder on that one circuit (my silvia is broken, so I'm espresso less... the horror).

I'll check out the gauge of the wire, and do as you guys advise. I specificly asked for 20 amp in the kitchen one year ago in case I went with the S1 or something else that needed 20 amp.

Just another month or two of saving:(
Barry

Post by Barry »

The alternate outlet type you are refering to, where one blade is flat, indicates that the outlet is not only on a 20 amp breaker, but that the outlet itself is on a dedicated circuit. The 20 amp S1 is designed to be run on a dedicated circuit or you risk popping the breaker if something else is placed on the circuit at the same time. In some places, it would be a code violation (if you care), to change the outlet and designate it as dedicated outlet when it is not.
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