The steam boiler has no pressure on the dial, and the steam boiler "over-temp" alarm comes on. I have to press the boiler button to clear this alarm (shutting down the steam boiler) which allows the machine to be used for espresso only.
Is this caused by the steam boiler is not refilling? When I turn on the hot water dispenser, no water or steam is dispensed. Opening the steam knob produces no flow of any kind. The group boiler and brew pump work fine (ie I can make espresso).
Is there a simple fix, or is it time for a service call? Coincidentally this seemed to coincide with adding a new supply line, which would have resulted in running some air through the plumbing. What is "vapor lock", is this related to "vapor lock"?
Steam Boiler Refill
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bobroseman
Happened to me once. Brain fart in auto fill. Unplug from wall and let machine cool. Plug it back in and see if problem is fixed. If not, unplug and let cool then take off back and unhook the blue wire on the back of the brew boiler see http://www.rimpo.org/s1/S1Photos.html picture 5 left blue wire, then plug machine back in - it ought to begin filling steam boiler. If so unplug again from wall and reattach blue wire and button up machine. The plug back into wall.
If in doubt call Chris Cramer at Chris' coffee. He can talk you through it better than me. Seems like a rare problem. Happened once to me but no problems since.
Bob
If in doubt call Chris Cramer at Chris' coffee. He can talk you through it better than me. Seems like a rare problem. Happened once to me but no problems since.
Bob
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merge03
thanks - will try tonight
Bob,
i figured it was something that simple. i'll try that procedure tonight when i get home.
lots of "blue wires" in photo 5 (thanks photographer), i do see the "left blue wire on the back of the brew boiler". Just to be clear, it is the back of the "brew boiler" you meant?
I must assume that my steam boiler is not filling because the brew boiler is full, and that there is a logic "mistake/feature" somewhere that can cause this situation. worth a shot before I have to spend time on the phone.
Thanks, I'll post tomorrow on how it went.
Mark
i figured it was something that simple. i'll try that procedure tonight when i get home.
lots of "blue wires" in photo 5 (thanks photographer), i do see the "left blue wire on the back of the brew boiler". Just to be clear, it is the back of the "brew boiler" you meant?
I must assume that my steam boiler is not filling because the brew boiler is full, and that there is a logic "mistake/feature" somewhere that can cause this situation. worth a shot before I have to spend time on the phone.
Thanks, I'll post tomorrow on how it went.
Mark
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bobroseman
It didn't make sense to me either but it worked. Also I didn't try plan "a" myself (ie just unplugging the whole thing) first. Chris had me go directly to plan "b" - unplugging the blue wire on the back of the brew boiler. But it might be enough to solve the problem and it can't hurt. I'd like to know if it helps.
I assumed that I was trying to fool the S1 into thinking that the "brew boiler" needed refilling so that the pump would start and in the process the "steam boiler" would also be replenished. But I didn't pursue it further because it fixed the problem. I would like to know why it solved the problem if you find out.
Bob
ps Be careful! Things get hot and there is both electricity and water back there so use caution. (Included to salve my conscience in case you fry a finger or your mother board ) I always worry about advising surgery so, did I say, be careful? '-))
I assumed that I was trying to fool the S1 into thinking that the "brew boiler" needed refilling so that the pump would start and in the process the "steam boiler" would also be replenished. But I didn't pursue it further because it fixed the problem. I would like to know why it solved the problem if you find out.
Bob
ps Be careful! Things get hot and there is both electricity and water back there so use caution. (Included to salve my conscience in case you fry a finger or your mother board ) I always worry about advising surgery so, did I say, be careful? '-))
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merge03
no luck
well if nothing else, I'm pretty proficient at removing and installing the skins. dropped an email with Chris' Coffee for help.
observations for the quieting thread:
there are two full strips of squishy rubber under each side of the tray warmer.
the side panels have a nylon barbed insert thing in the center of the bottom rear wing of the side panels. holds the bottom rear of the side panels in very tight, but makes it very very less conducive to multiple strip downs and reassemblys of the skins. Not that there should ever be a reason to do that.
observation on 15A vs 20A:
the new models have a toggle switch on the inside, just above the control board that is marked "15A" and "20A". Obviously the power cords would be different as well, and who knows what else might need to be "jumpered".
observations on posted photos:
the photos are still pretty accurate as compared to the "latest batch" (july 2004), but many of the wire colors have changed. for the better I think. for instance, the group boiler now uses black and white wires for the heating element. the overall layout was about the same. the control board sheilding/housing was a little cleaner too.
observations for the quieting thread:
there are two full strips of squishy rubber under each side of the tray warmer.
the side panels have a nylon barbed insert thing in the center of the bottom rear wing of the side panels. holds the bottom rear of the side panels in very tight, but makes it very very less conducive to multiple strip downs and reassemblys of the skins. Not that there should ever be a reason to do that.
observation on 15A vs 20A:
the new models have a toggle switch on the inside, just above the control board that is marked "15A" and "20A". Obviously the power cords would be different as well, and who knows what else might need to be "jumpered".
observations on posted photos:
the photos are still pretty accurate as compared to the "latest batch" (july 2004), but many of the wire colors have changed. for the better I think. for instance, the group boiler now uses black and white wires for the heating element. the overall layout was about the same. the control board sheilding/housing was a little cleaner too.
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chas
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Re: no luck
As you can see from photo 6 on the pix page of the S1 site, the unit I bought in January also has the rubber strips across the top AND the white plastic inserts on the lower rear corners. After talking the covers off as many times as I have, these barbs are no longer very barbed!merge03 wrote:well if nothing else, I'm pretty proficient at removing and installing the skins. dropped an email with Chris' Coffee for help.
observations for the quieting thread:
there are two full strips of squishy rubber under each side of the tray warmer.
the side panels have a nylon barbed insert thing in the center of the bottom rear wing of the side panels. holds the bottom rear of the side panels in very tight, but makes it very very less conducive to multiple strip downs and reassemblys of the skins. Not that there should ever be a reason to do that.
observation on 15A vs 20A:
the new models have a toggle switch on the inside, just above the control board that is marked "15A" and "20A". Obviously the power cords would be different as well, and who knows what else might need to be "jumpered".
observations on posted photos:
the photos are still pretty accurate as compared to the "latest batch" (july 2004), but many of the wire colors have changed. for the better I think. for instance, the group boiler now uses black and white wires for the heating element. the overall layout was about the same. the control board sheilding/housing was a little cleaner too.
How about your drip tray grate? Is there any play in it at all or does it fit snuggly down into the drip tray. Mine has a lot of play.
Chas
LM GS/3 & LaSpaziale Dream v 1.25 (US 120V)
Mazzer Kony E, Customized Rocky
Hottop P/B
LM GS/3 & LaSpaziale Dream v 1.25 (US 120V)
Mazzer Kony E, Customized Rocky
Hottop P/B
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merge03
drip tray
the drip tray is nice and snug.
and yes, those barbed plastic things won't last more than three or four removal / insertion cycles max.
other than the colors of wires, and the 15/20A switch, i didn't notice too much different than your guts.
if have pictures if you want me to send them to you.
and yes, those barbed plastic things won't last more than three or four removal / insertion cycles max.
other than the colors of wires, and the 15/20A switch, i didn't notice too much different than your guts.
if have pictures if you want me to send them to you.
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barjohn
Solenoid valve A controls water to the steam boiler. Looking at the schematic there are several possibilities. SL is the boiler level sensor that should cause the unit to add water. There is also a boiler over temperature safety thermostat that will shut down the boiler if it gets too hot (as in no water). Are any of the alarms lights indicating the problem? Several alarms on the unit are blocking alarms meaning that they will shut off a functionality to protect the unit. Test for a vapor lock by pressing the relief valve. Most likely it is a faulty logic situation caused b a bit being toggled that shouldn't be and trying the fixes Bob gace you should sovle the problem.
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merge03
UPS just dropped it off here at the office
The guys at Chris Coffee are great to work with. It's been to Chris' and now I have it back, all in just under a week.
I worked with one their tech's on the phone to try an diagnose the problem before sending it back. We were so close, but over looked one variation of what he was pretty sure the problem was. And it turned out to be just that.
It was a "logic" issue, caused by a bad connection to the autofill level detect switch on the top of the steam boiler. But the problem was not at the boiler side of the connection, the problem was were the sensor wire attaches to the control board. And even though it physically appeared to be connected, there was an issue there. The guys at Chris's fixed the problem, and adjusted the routing of the wiring harness such that there is no longer any stress on those wires. Everything should be good to go.
Really fighting the urge to go home for lunch and put it all back together. But I know better than thinking that I'll "just come right back". After not having a machine for a whole 6+ days, I'd be playing home barista all afternoon. I even broke down and had a stovetop "espresso" this morning (which was surprisingly "drinkable" with fresh beans and a good grinder, and 6 days of cold turkey jones'n ).
I worked with one their tech's on the phone to try an diagnose the problem before sending it back. We were so close, but over looked one variation of what he was pretty sure the problem was. And it turned out to be just that.
It was a "logic" issue, caused by a bad connection to the autofill level detect switch on the top of the steam boiler. But the problem was not at the boiler side of the connection, the problem was were the sensor wire attaches to the control board. And even though it physically appeared to be connected, there was an issue there. The guys at Chris's fixed the problem, and adjusted the routing of the wiring harness such that there is no longer any stress on those wires. Everything should be good to go.
Really fighting the urge to go home for lunch and put it all back together. But I know better than thinking that I'll "just come right back". After not having a machine for a whole 6+ days, I'd be playing home barista all afternoon. I even broke down and had a stovetop "espresso" this morning (which was surprisingly "drinkable" with fresh beans and a good grinder, and 6 days of cold turkey jones'n ).