Frozen Corroded motor bearing, baking 101 and dental implant technology Added video bearing noise

steve96822 · Post by **steve96822** » Mon Jan 15, 2018 7:31 am

Take ample photos of everything to include plumbing and electrical wiring and all else you will mess with.

Symptoms;
10 year old Viv 1
machine not used for 1 month
scraping noise during shot . I have video with scraping noise but have yet to figure out how to attach it to this port.
then motor silent, little water at brewhead
85,90 &90 degree lights blink together during shot pull
poor shot

Workup;

revised water filtration system to make optimal inlet pressure to machine= no improvement

cleaned and inspected flow meter = no improvement

removed and inspected pump; corrosion noted. Motor bearing frozen, pump- motor coupling fused to pump side. Pump still be turned by hand

removed motor, looks great except for seized bearing and corrosion inside collar wher pump connects.
I did not know if motor might be burned out since I tried to pull shots with seized bearing.

WD40 used and waited. Coupling removed and filed to normal spec. Also filed motor shaft end where coupling goes. Manually got bearing to rotate freely albeit not silently. Used lithium grease while rotating bearing and got some inside. I did not want to try to remove bearing cover. Removed excess lithium grease and cleaned bearing. Sanded motor collar as well.

Motor reassembled and mounted.

Applied coat of food safe silicone grease to outer face of bearing. Reattached pump

Leaning S1 on its back makes it much easier to reattach pump-motor collar as you can rotate it and get easy screwdriver access to tighten. Also facilitates reconnecting water supply feed and other water line.

Low and behold now pulls great shots. I must deal with the bearing noise until the new bearing arrives.

SKF E262022ZC3 15x35x11mm Energy Efficient Shielded Deep Groove Ball Bearing. Got on ebay buy readily available other sources. Hope this is right one LOL. Galvanic corrosion is what caused the crud on bottom of motor collar. Dissmilar metals in contact. Stainless steel bearing casing on aluminum motor coollar at the expense of aluminum. Brass coupler with steel motor shaft. Any water leak/humidity from pump just catalyzes the reaction This made think about non metallic bearing options. Also ordered a full zirconia bearing (no metal) Zirconia is widely used in dental crowns and implants and is very strong although can be brittle. An internet video seeing zirconia dental implants hammered into a tree as if they were metal nails boosted my confidence.

Observations / Comments

Seems the motor is protected from burning out? Thank God

Both bearings arrived, full stainless steel as original and full zirconia. I suggest using a gear puller to remove original bearing. I my case a local auto repair shop used their bearing puller for me. Very important, don't lose the small metal collar that is between the motor shaft and bearing. This collar acts to hold bearing firmly in place and without it the bearing ID is too big.

Effort in vain; trying to insert the metal collar into the bearing by hand prior to even trying to mount on motor shaft.

Baking Lesson; An internet video hsowed how some pros mount bearings. Bake at 300 degrees F for 10 minutes then you dont need an armature press or similar device. First bake zirconia bearing as above, use oven mitts or other glove designed for high temps. I used a cloth folded over a few times.

Remove bearing as on solid heatproof surface press bearing onto metal collar. Success 

Next place this bearing on collar back into oven for about 10 minutes. While heating bearing I had motor shaft tip packed in ice but another option would be to freeze it in a sealed plastic bag, Out of ice I dried it with a towel. I placed a piece of wood on floor and above it used a towel wrapped around motor shaft to support it upright. Might work just as well if shaft not cold? 

Floor preferable in case the bearing fell it would not fall far and be less likely to fracture. Can put towels on floor as precaution. Might want to order 2 zirconia gaskets in case one fractures. I believe hot zirconia may be less likely to fracture. 

Bearing-collar unit fresh out of the oven I placed it on motor shaft uneventfully into correct position. There is a plastic stop on shaft to help insure correct position. Was quite easy. The bearing technician on video commented that just about any bearing grease will not be adversely affected by that temp range. In my case it was an unlubricated full zirconia bearing. I did lubricate finally with a NSF PTFE product. Also relubricated opposite end bearing. Post lubrication, zirconia bearing became silent. Prelubrication you could hear the balls moving but silence is my goal. 

I needed to sand the motor collar a little to allow the new bearing to fit. It was this collar that corroded around the old stainless bearing. Suggest you correctly position the zirconia bearing in motor colar first, then close the 2 halves of motor case. 

I also used a small amt of PTFE on the motor casing male component to make it easier to split should I need to open it again. Make sure the rotation of motor case is correct to allow the capacitor to me remounted correctly. A rubber mallet is very useful. I was able to remove motor from rear of S1 without removing capacitor but it would have been easier to remove it. 

Reattach pump and remove old teflon tape/ apply new teflon to male threads. Connect water plumbing. Thank Emeril, Iron Chef and modern dental science.

Working perfectly and as quietly as new. I anticipate my next project will be to rebuild the Fluid O Tech pump.</r>

The attachment P_20171222_164139.jpg is no longer available

steve96822 · Post by **steve96822** » Mon Jan 15, 2018 7:36 am

: Close up corroded bearing. Note coupling. (Small brass piece that connects the pump shaft to the motor shaft) was literally fused to the motor shaft. WD40, wait and used incrementally larger sheet metal screws to wedge it loose.; P1050072.jpg (60.97 KiB) Viewed 30280 times

steve96822 · Post by **steve96822** » Mon Jan 15, 2018 7:39 am

: Zirconia bearing . (open end) face this side towards motor; P1050050.jpg (30.95 KiB) Viewed 30280 times

steve96822 · Post by **steve96822** » Mon Jan 15, 2018 7:43 am

P1050088.jpg

steve96822 · Post by **steve96822** » Mon Jan 15, 2018 7:45 am

: Motor collar with Zirconia bearing ready to attach pump.; P1050088.jpg (73.31 KiB) Viewed 30280 times

: Zirconia bearing installed on motor armature; P1050076.jpg (35.55 KiB) Viewed 30280 times

: Bearing collar. Don't lose. Need this to make new bearing fit.; P1050073.jpg (34.82 KiB) Viewed 30280 times

: Plastic spacers on shaft help position bearing correctly. Marks in mine are from feeble attempts with hand tools to remove old bearing.; P1050077.jpg (41.25 KiB) Viewed 30279 times

: Machine turned on back shows easy access for pump and plumbing attachment.; P1050061.jpg (44.86 KiB) Viewed 30278 times

steve96822 · Post by **steve96822** » Mon Jan 15, 2018 7:56 am

: Baking 101 . = . Well done bearing; P1050093.jpg (47.97 KiB) Viewed 30276 times

: Pump reattached. Note I repositioned the copper drain tupe to place it to the left rather than behind where water it released was missing the tray and rusting the chassis.; P1050092.jpg (73.65 KiB) Viewed 30276 times

: Closed side of bearing.; P1050051.jpg (33.01 KiB) Viewed 30274 times

: Pump; P1050062.jpg (62.92 KiB) Viewed 30274 times

: Since the motor was already out I added rubber under the capacitor and resecured it to lower possibility of noise. Scotch tape was high tech solution LOL; P1050083.jpg (70.86 KiB) Viewed 30274 times

steve96822 · Post by **steve96822** » Mon Jan 15, 2018 8:17 am

: This is posterior half of motor casing. Condition inside is excellent; P1050081.jpg (86.78 KiB) Viewed 30269 times

: Motor removed, casing split and separated done at back of machine. No electrical wired were disconnected.; P1050082.jpg (97.2 KiB) Viewed 30269 times