Pressure relief valve Mini Vivaldi
Posted: Fri Dec 11, 2015 6:00 pm
I developed a water leak at at my pressure relief valve on my La Spazale S1 Mini Vivaldi (valve sitting behind the water tank) , and decided to take it apart for cleaning/inspection. It was a little gunky inside, but mostly light surface brass discoloration. After cleaning it up, I flipped the round rubber seat back-to-front, thus giving the interface a new place to seat.
All is good so far, but then I realized that the tighter I reassembled the valve, the higher the pressure would be set to allow the valve to vent. The valve has a spring in it, which compresses a round rubber seat against one side of the fitting. Unfortunately, I didn't think to take any measurements prior to disassembling the valve. I realize that this is a safety measure.
I reinstalled the valve to see if would still leak, but all seems to be good. No drips at all.
Does anyone have any idea of how one would go about figuring out what the cracking pressure should be, or how many turns of the threads are needed to be within the "safe zone"? I realize that the latter wouldn't be optimal. I called Chris' Coffee, and the tech said that they just replace the valve (at a cost of $50+shipping). It seems absolutely silly to me to pay that much money to replace what is clearly a result of degradation of a seat that costs mere cents. It also seems like such a waste of resources.
Thanks a ton for your thoughts!
All is good so far, but then I realized that the tighter I reassembled the valve, the higher the pressure would be set to allow the valve to vent. The valve has a spring in it, which compresses a round rubber seat against one side of the fitting. Unfortunately, I didn't think to take any measurements prior to disassembling the valve. I realize that this is a safety measure.
I reinstalled the valve to see if would still leak, but all seems to be good. No drips at all.
Does anyone have any idea of how one would go about figuring out what the cracking pressure should be, or how many turns of the threads are needed to be within the "safe zone"? I realize that the latter wouldn't be optimal. I called Chris' Coffee, and the tech said that they just replace the valve (at a cost of $50+shipping). It seems absolutely silly to me to pay that much money to replace what is clearly a result of degradation of a seat that costs mere cents. It also seems like such a waste of resources.
Thanks a ton for your thoughts!