The S1 Cafe - Helping Your Espresso Dreams Become Reality

Hi fellow Spaziales,

It is a curse to own a discontinued product; instead of enjoying the one in the house, you always focus on the extra abilities of the newer version. (I guess this is also relevant with the marriages :) ) Without forgetting how lucky I'm to own this wonderful machine I want to learn the possibilities I have for development. I’m a newbie on S1 and the terminology. So please be gentle with me :)

To admin: I know this is a v1 specific thread, and I know v1 sub-group are in the very bottom of the main page which gets 1 message per year and where everyone neglects; but if this not a super big problem please let this thread be here until it matures and covers the subject. If it must go where it belongs, then no problem :)

Steam Wand: First thing comes to mind is the steam wand. Do you guys prefer the No-burn arm or the S5 arm?

https://www.chriscoffee.com/No-Burn-Ste ... 980lvc.htm

https://www.chriscoffee.com/Vivaldi-II- ... p/7833.htm

Pressure Gauge The Pressure gauge on my device has a fault. It shows the pressure during operation but when turns off it stuck on 0.5 bar. I want to replace it but can I use the Dual pressure gauge of the v2 and gain the steam pressure gauge ability by doing the internal work to steam boiler? Any suggestions about this work?

https://www.chriscoffee.com/La-Spaziale ... p/1481.htm

Group Shower Screen I think this must also be changed. There are several items on CCS and I’m not sure which ones I need. Obviously I have to choose between the first two; but do I need the third one?

https://www.chriscoffee.com/La-Spaziale ... 460211.htm

https://www.chriscoffee.com/Group-Showe ... howerg.htm

https://www.chriscoffee.com/La-Spaziale ... p/1941.htm


Temp Prob Do I need to change the circuit board to benefit from the new probs?

https://www.chriscoffee.com/Vivaldi-Tem ... p/7540.htm

BTW, I didn’t know that Vivaldi also measures the steam boiler temperature. So should I buy this one also:

https://www.chriscoffee.com/Vivaldi-Tem ... p/8919.htm

Do I need this part also:

https://www.chriscoffee.com/La-Spaziale ... p/7483.htm

That's it for start. To get the pre-infusion I guess I need the circuit upgrade. Let's handle it later.

Regards

Firochromis wrote:Hi fellow Spaziales,

It is a curse to own a discontinued product; instead of enjoying the one in the house, you always focus on the extra abilities of the newer version. (I guess this is also relevant with the marriages :) ) Without forgetting how lucky I'm to own this wonderful machine I want to learn the possibilities I have for development. I’m a newbie on S1 and the terminology. So please be gentle with me :)

To admin: I know this is a v1 specific thread, and I know v1 sub-group are in the very bottom of the main page which gets 1 message per year and where everyone neglects; but if this not a super big problem please let this thread be here until it matures and covers the subject. If it must go where it belongs, then no problem :)

Steam Wand: First thing comes to mind is the steam wand. Do you guys prefer the No-burn arm or the S5 arm?

https://www.chriscoffee.com/No-Burn-Ste ... 980lvc.htm

https://www.chriscoffee.com/Vivaldi-II- ... p/7833.htm

The S5 arm wins my a mile. The no-burn arm restricts the steam pressure too much.

Firochromis wrote: Pressure Gauge The Pressure gauge on my device has a fault. It shows the pressure during operation but when turns off it stuck on 0.5 bar. I want to replace it but can I use the Dual pressure gauge of the v2 and gain the steam pressure gauge ability by doing the internal work to steam boiler? Any suggestions about this work?

https://www.chriscoffee.com/La-Spaziale ... p/1481.htm

You at least need a new single gauge. However, if you really want the dual gauge, you should be able to get a kit that includes the new gauge with all the required fittings plus a new front panel with the rectangular hole. I don't have any idea what that costs. If your S1 is one of the later models and not one of the early ones, it will already have the hole needed to bolt the dual gauge to drilled in the upper frame cross member. If it's not there, you will have to carefully measure and drill this yourself which requires removing the steam boiler.

Firochromis wrote: Group Shower Screen I think this must also be changed. There are several items on CCS and I’m not sure which ones I need. Obviously I have to choose between the first two; but do I need the third one?

https://www.chriscoffee.com/La-Spaziale ... 460211.htm

https://www.chriscoffee.com/Group-Showe ... howerg.htm

https://www.chriscoffee.com/La-Spaziale ... p/1941.htm

Unless your S1 doesn't have the shower screens or they are damaged there is no need to buy a new set. I have tried the newer precision screens and don't think they are worth the extra cost so just get the stock screens if you need a new set. If your machine doesn't have the brass diffuser disk that goes above the screens you will need to purchase one, but there is no need if you already have one. They don't go bad or wear out.

Firochromis wrote: Temp Prob Do I need to change the circuit board to benefit from the new probs?

https://www.chriscoffee.com/Vivaldi-Tem ... p/7540.htm

BTW, I didn’t know that Vivaldi also measures the steam boiler temperature. So should I buy this one also:

https://www.chriscoffee.com/Vivaldi-Tem ... p/8919.htm

Do I need this part also:

https://www.chriscoffee.com/La-Spaziale ... p/7483.htm

The new temperature probes work fine with the old controller boards. You won't get the more precise temperature control that you would get by using the new probes and the new boards, they will effectively work the same as the old temp probes do with your controller board.
You would only need the third item (last link above) if the tube in your group boiler has corroded and is leaking water into the tube.

Firochromis wrote: That's it for start. To get the pre-infusion I guess I need the circuit upgrade. Let's handle it later.

Regards

If you have bought an old S1 and are refurbishing it, more important that replacing working parts just because they are old is to open up both boilers and see if they need to be cleaned of mineral build up. Before you start this effort be sure you have replacement gaskets for each boiler and food grade citric acid in case you need to descale the boilers.

Chas, thank you for your detailed answer, I appreciate it.

Starting from the last.

My very first purpose was to clean the boilers, but I couldn't find the gaskets in Turkey and e-mailing to Italy gave me nothing. That's why I'll order from CCS but to bring the shipping costs to acceptable levels I'm trying to make a buyin list with the essentials.

So, I settled on S5 armwand, no expense to group shower and probs.

About the dual gauge; My S1 is from 2006, so I don't assume it to be later models. do you have a photo of the steam boiler witn the necessary pressure gauge connection?

The gaskets I'm getting are:

Vivaldi Steam Boiler Element Gasket:
https://www.chriscoffee.com/Vivaldi-Ste ... m?CartID=3

Vivaldi Steam Boiler Lid Gasket
https://www.chriscoffee.com/Vivaldi-Ste ... m?CartID=7

Vivaldi Coffee Boiler Element Gasket
https://www.chriscoffee.com/Vivaldi-Cof ... m?CartID=4

Regards

Hi Chas, while studying the S1V2 manual I noticed that group pressure gauge is NOT connected to the group boiler but to a T valve just next to pump. This valve is nonexisdent at S1V1:



Besides that there is a "thing" on top of the group boiler but that doesn't seem to be what I'm looking for:

The part T#3 is labelled as #1 in the left photo of an S1. This shows one port blocked by a brass cap. T#3 is labelled #2 on the right photo of an S2. In this case, the cap blocking the port has been unscrewed and replaced by a fitting that connects the thin copper tube that goes to the group pressure gauge.

Hi Chas,

To my surprise my unit has all the three "T" in it; being a v1, I expected to find only 2 So, applying dual gauge will be somewhat easy. BTW, in my unit there is no cooling fans under the triacs. Does this means, somebody updated my unit?

Turkey uses 220V, correct? 220V machines don't have or need the fan since only 1/2 as much current has to flow through the triac. 1440W/120V =12A 1140W/220V = 6.5A

Brilliant!! Thank you :)

I'm almost finalized my shopping list.

I few days ago I sent an e-mail to La Spaziale Italy asking help about the new main control circuit board. To my surprise I got a call from La Spaz. Turkey (they already have my number) and asking for clarification of my request. I wonder if this board update thing is unknown in Europe? Is there an easier way to explain this?

I'll add S5 arm wand, pre-infusion and dual gauge to my unit. So what will I miss REALLY with the v2? No control over pre-infusion, ok; but is it a big deal?

The original V2 board had additional features over the S1 and then the firmware was upgraded to add even more features.

1) Original V2 board

• V2 group boiler front panel LEDs in increments of 1C rather than 5C on V1

• V2 used tighter tolerances on temp sensors with software to support it

• V2 board also has V1 mode and you can switch back and forth.
  At this point LaSpaz started using the same board on both models including Minis.
  A jumper tells the SW whether the board is in a Mini or a Maxi

2) Firmware Upgraded V2 board

• Extended programmable boiler offset range

• Programmable pre-infusion

Hi Firochromis,

2 weeks ago I've received brand new 2014 Vivaldi. To my surprise it had single gauge and 5c panel meaning its v1.
After talking to the store i've worked with La Spaz, they sent me parts to change my machine to V2.
I guess the difference between the cases it that my board has v2 software on it already.

Once i'll get everything I can send you the part list and image so you'll get better view of what needed.

Chura wrote:Hi Firochromis,

2 weeks ago I've received brand new 2014 Vivaldi. To my surprise it had single gauge and 5c panel meaning its v1.
After talking to the store i've worked with La Spaz, they sent me parts to change my machine to V2.
I guess the difference between the cases it that my board has v2 software on it already.

Once i'll get everything I can send you the part list and image so you'll get better view of what needed.

Hi Chura, this would be very helpful. I'll try to explain my need to Italy.

Sorry it took so long.
My wife took this pic for me, she got the box while I'm on business at the far east.

I guess if you have an older machine it's not bad to get a new front panel. However, the only difference in the front panel between a V1 and a V2 is the stick on piece with the numbers on it. They could have made a much less expensive kit by just supplying a new stick-on rather than the entire panel.

Hi people,

When I start my machine lights for the 110C 120C and ECON turn on, and off. Then machine works, so this is a non-blocking error. According to the manual this is a Damaged Boiler Temperature Probe. I'll order Temp Sensor for Coffee Boiler part #7540, it but want to hear a confirmation first.

Regards

Oh, Or should I buy Temp Sensor for Steam Boiler #8919 for this error?

Firochromis wrote:Oh, Or should I buy Temp Sensor for Steam Boiler #8919 for this error?

That alarm is for the steam boiler so this would be the part. Once the machine heats up are you getting steam? If this error is real you should not be getting any steam. The only things this alarm can detect is whether the temp probe is open or shorted, but it doesn't tell you which. An open condition can just be a broken or loose wire to the probe. You should probably check for this before ordering a part.

If you are getting this alarm but the steam and hot water are still fine then something is strange. As the User's Manual notes, if you press the Boiler button to turn off the steam boiler you should no longer get the alarm. This is also a good test to run.

The temp probe has short wires with connectors on the ends that plug into the cable that runs to the controller board. In the attached photo below they are shown inside the yellow circle. There is an orange sleeve over each connector, both tightly held together with a single nylon cable tie. Cut off this cable tie, then slide the sleeves along the wire in order to expose the connectors. Check for broken wires and also disconnect and reconnect these connectors several time in case there is any oxidation on the connectors.

Doing that could be enough to clear the condition. At any rate you'll need to perform these steps in order to replace the temperature probe anyway!

CAVEAT: Unfortunately, LaSpaziale doesn't stick to any kind of standard color coding scheme when they assemble these machines. Both the wire colors AND the color of those sleeves may be different on your machine relative to this photo.

When I took my boiler apart the other day, and was very cautious on putting it back together, on start up same error. I tried to remove the temp probe and it seemed stuck. Of comes the boiler top again and it seemed the the tube that the temp probes goes into was slightly bent. Have no idea how. Straightened, inserted prob, and all is good.

Chas,

You are making our life easier :)

As you said this alarm was not blocking neither the steam nor the hot water. Maybe I forgot to mention that this situation occurs right after I power up the unit. This below article is from S1 Manual:

Press the ON / OFF (27) button and keep it pressed for about 3 seconds, the green On/STBY light (22) changes from flashing to steady indicating the machine is ON. At the same time the lights from (14) to (21) turn on steadily for about a second (indicating power on test mode).

I think my situation is the lights 14-18 lights so dim that, at first glance you think only 19-21 lights up. To be sure I get in Temp Adjustment mode and tried lower temps to see how bright the light is. Voila! :) Indeed the lights between 14-18 are VERY dim in my unit. So what comes next, a new control board?

It sounds like the front panel not the controller board. They communicate with each other over a simple serial interface. All the LED drivers are right there in the front panel. The first thing I would do is check that the connectors are tight in case there is not enough power for the LEDs. Otherwise you may have to buy a new front panel or just live with it.