Okay, I feel a burst of energy coming on. I think I'll go to home depot this weekend and get a screw-on barbed fitting that will seal to a drilled hole in the drip tray with two gaskets. I'll slip on some 3/8" tubing and drill a hole in my undersink drain pipe (on the top side of an elbow and stick the tubing in and silicon the whole thing closed). Any advice?
Bob
Drain for the drip tray.
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barjohn
Did you decide where to place the drain hole? My assessment is the best location is out the back side between the pump and the copper line going to the dosimeter. This location gives you some room to bring the line out before you must bring it down. The key will be to get the water inlet as low as possible. This might require filing down one part of the lip on a plastic fitting. Of course, coming out the bottom would be great but then you must drill a hole through the metal bottom. I haven't decided if I want to do that yet. If I were coming out the bottom I would locate up by where the three way valve dumps as that is the lowest location and where water collects. Perhaps a 3/8" hole in the metal wouldn't be that bad. However, I still want to be able to remove the tray for serious cleaning.
Any futher thoughts let me know. Also post some pictures so we can see what you came up with.
Any futher thoughts let me know. Also post some pictures so we can see what you came up with.
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bobroseman
I thought out the back with a quick disconnect and a cuttoff so the tray could be remove. A couple of times when I was busy (Lazy) the tray got pretty full. I wasn't worried about getting every last drop out of it, in fact, there is an upside to coming out the back about half way up. You have a settling tank where grinds can settle and the liquid can drain away. Of course that mandates the ability to quickly and conveniently disconnect and remove the tray for thorough cleaning. Here are a couple of items from the laboratory supply catalog. Maybe not thses but something like them. I'll haveto check out homedepot and lowes.
Bob
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wwwww 1----->2<------
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1. http://www.omega.com/pdf/tubing/couplin ... plings.asp
2. http://www.omega.com/pdf/tubing/couplin ... ft-mso.asp
Bob
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wwwww 1----->2<------
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1. http://www.omega.com/pdf/tubing/couplin ... plings.asp
2. http://www.omega.com/pdf/tubing/couplin ... ft-mso.asp
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barjohn
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John T
Drip Tray Drain
I'm several steps from a sink so, inspired by Bob R, I went to Home Depot and picked up a 3/8" quick disconnect male adapter, a conduit lock nut from the electrical dept. and a length of 3/8" clear tubing. The tubing and disconnect are conveniently color coded together (yellow for 3/8"). Seemed like there ought to be a plastic nut to fit the disconnect but my HD had no such animal, the conduit nut worked fine.
I have some pics of the steps below. If anyone wants them just post a reply with your e-mail. (Can pics be attached to a post?)
Step 1 - Took out the drip tray and measured from the side of the S1 to the center of the space between the copper tubings.
Step 2 - Planned to place the lock nut centered on that measurement in the back of the drip tray (interior), resting on the bottom and mark the hole but instead had to jam the nut against the rear center drip grate support to avoid having to cut it. (I lucked out and later cleared the copper tubing beyond. Check carefully. Your tubing might be located slightly differently.) Drilled a small pilot hole in the center of the marked hole and then carefully/slowly drilled the hole from the back of the tray using a spade bit that was close enough to the right size. A Forstner bit or hole saw of the correct size would have been better.
Step 3 - Filed off one of the nubs on the lock nut so it wouldn't protrude above the top of the drain grate support and make the drain grate rock slightly.
Step 4 - Held the nut over the hole with the filed off portion on top and screwed in the disconnect. Snugged it up tight with a Crescent and inserted the plastic tubing. It drains into a sheet rock bucket in my basement, very hi tech.
I tested it for a few weeks to be sure the hot water wasn't going to make the tube fall out and then smeared some silicone on the interior to stop the slight drip around the lock nut. (I actually performed Step 3 at this point after a few weeks of rocking drain grate.)
John Tomlinson
I have some pics of the steps below. If anyone wants them just post a reply with your e-mail. (Can pics be attached to a post?)
Step 1 - Took out the drip tray and measured from the side of the S1 to the center of the space between the copper tubings.
Step 2 - Planned to place the lock nut centered on that measurement in the back of the drip tray (interior), resting on the bottom and mark the hole but instead had to jam the nut against the rear center drip grate support to avoid having to cut it. (I lucked out and later cleared the copper tubing beyond. Check carefully. Your tubing might be located slightly differently.) Drilled a small pilot hole in the center of the marked hole and then carefully/slowly drilled the hole from the back of the tray using a spade bit that was close enough to the right size. A Forstner bit or hole saw of the correct size would have been better.
Step 3 - Filed off one of the nubs on the lock nut so it wouldn't protrude above the top of the drain grate support and make the drain grate rock slightly.
Step 4 - Held the nut over the hole with the filed off portion on top and screwed in the disconnect. Snugged it up tight with a Crescent and inserted the plastic tubing. It drains into a sheet rock bucket in my basement, very hi tech.
I tested it for a few weeks to be sure the hot water wasn't going to make the tube fall out and then smeared some silicone on the interior to stop the slight drip around the lock nut. (I actually performed Step 3 at this point after a few weeks of rocking drain grate.)
John Tomlinson