HI, I am having a tough time finding the correct size hose and crimp rings, etc - the ones that go between steam boiler and steam wand.
At Home Depot they have 1/4" and 3/8" but the Vivaldi one is half-way between - maybe 5/16ths - or maybe it's metric?
Does anyone have any additional info or where to buy in NA?
Thanks.
hoses and crimp rings
Re: hoses and crimp rings
I believe that they are metric. I would call Chris Coffee (or another dealer) and ask for the specification. You can then either purchase from the dealer or look for them on the net. Presumably a large industrial supply house (such as Grainger) has them if you know what you are seeking.
- chas
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Re: hoses and crimp rings
Yes check with CCS. It's likely 8mm ID which is easy enough to find. However, the metal parts might be more difficult.
Chas
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Re: hoses and crimp rings
Zoomin... I hope this diatribe is helpful.
I just dismantled my original S1 to repair leaks from the boiler area, and to descale my boiler. Being that this was the first time I'd taken all of the plastic sides off the machine to reveal the frame and components, I found it a learning experience. Frankly, the machine became quite a bit less imtimidating when stripped bare.
Regarding replacing "any hose" that goes to the boiler....... I ended up working on the fill valve to boiler inlet hose, I regret not just ordering the OEM hose material and the fittings from Chris Coffee. I'm in SoCal, and have always felt that I could source just about anything for anything. This time I failed. Here's the major issue. The OEM hose is made of a "high temp" material. And all the hose material I sourced locally, literally, softened and failed. And Grainger and McMaster Carr Industrial Supply weren't any help. The hose-temp failure will happen to any hose end that connects at the boiler end. Everything gets uber-hot.
What I ended up doing, during an unsuccessful removal attempt of the fill valve to boiler hose, was destroying the boiler end fittings. I ended up, in a moment of brilliance two days later, using the remaining good end of the hose I screwed up, but the end at the cold water valve. I ended up making that the boiler end of the hose. I bought and used standard cold water "refridgerator" hose and fittings at the fill valve end, where it's cold. And then I used a cold water connector at about the 40% distance to the boiler. But I had to make sure that the OEM hose was a little over 50% of the total distance, so that the cold water hose didn't get warm. But boy did I waste a lot of time, maybe two days, dinking around until I figured out that "save strategy." As for sourcing the metal fittings at the end? I couldn't find anything that was the right fit. Good thing I had one good end to repair the hose going into the boiler .
So, I fought the battle of trying to find substitute fittings. Metric or not, I just could not come up with anything that was a proper fit. And even if I had, the local hose supplies did not have my high-temp hose. Next time I'll just resign myself to no brewing for a few days and wait for my shipment of parts. And if I can't wait, I'll pay for 2nd Day Air from upstate NY. Good luck.
I just dismantled my original S1 to repair leaks from the boiler area, and to descale my boiler. Being that this was the first time I'd taken all of the plastic sides off the machine to reveal the frame and components, I found it a learning experience. Frankly, the machine became quite a bit less imtimidating when stripped bare.
Regarding replacing "any hose" that goes to the boiler....... I ended up working on the fill valve to boiler inlet hose, I regret not just ordering the OEM hose material and the fittings from Chris Coffee. I'm in SoCal, and have always felt that I could source just about anything for anything. This time I failed. Here's the major issue. The OEM hose is made of a "high temp" material. And all the hose material I sourced locally, literally, softened and failed. And Grainger and McMaster Carr Industrial Supply weren't any help. The hose-temp failure will happen to any hose end that connects at the boiler end. Everything gets uber-hot.
What I ended up doing, during an unsuccessful removal attempt of the fill valve to boiler hose, was destroying the boiler end fittings. I ended up, in a moment of brilliance two days later, using the remaining good end of the hose I screwed up, but the end at the cold water valve. I ended up making that the boiler end of the hose. I bought and used standard cold water "refridgerator" hose and fittings at the fill valve end, where it's cold. And then I used a cold water connector at about the 40% distance to the boiler. But I had to make sure that the OEM hose was a little over 50% of the total distance, so that the cold water hose didn't get warm. But boy did I waste a lot of time, maybe two days, dinking around until I figured out that "save strategy." As for sourcing the metal fittings at the end? I couldn't find anything that was the right fit. Good thing I had one good end to repair the hose going into the boiler .
So, I fought the battle of trying to find substitute fittings. Metric or not, I just could not come up with anything that was a proper fit. And even if I had, the local hose supplies did not have my high-temp hose. Next time I'll just resign myself to no brewing for a few days and wait for my shipment of parts. And if I can't wait, I'll pay for 2nd Day Air from upstate NY. Good luck.
Re: hoses and crimp rings
Yes - very helpful, thank you.alsterling wrote:Zoomin... I hope this diatribe is helpful.
I did spend a fair bit of time trying to find just the right size of bits and pieces and even if I did no doubt the hose would not have ben high-temp.
I have An OEM replacement coming rom Cafe Tech in Edmonton.
Re: hoses and crimp rings
Zoomin...
Glad to be of help, in that I evidently shared in ... "...putting the fear of the Lord into you!" :-)
Glad to be of help, in that I evidently shared in ... "...putting the fear of the Lord into you!" :-)