Burning Smell - Problem and Solution posted

[BobG]

I thought I would pass along the problem that I encountered today with my S1 in case any of you run into this in the future. Thanks to Roger at Chris' Coffee for diagnosing the problem and telling me how to fix it over the phone. Needless to say, I am very impressed with Chris' Coffee.

I smelled a burning plastic/rubber smell about 5 minutes into the warmup of my S1 this morning. Luckily, I was still in the same room and did was not cooking anything, so it was easy for me to tell something was burning in the S1. I shut off the machine immediately and then noticed the burning smell was coming from the left side of the machine.

I popped off the top and gave Chris' Coffee a call and spoke with Roger. I noticed one of the plastic boots on top of the steam boiler looked slighly melted and Roger had an immediate idea what the problem was and told me how to proceed once the machine had cooled down.

There are two electrical boot covers on top of your steam boiler. If you pull off the boot cover, and the connection is loose with the crimped on slide, then you need to remove the slide and tighten the crimp so there is no play when the connection is made. If there is, Roger said you will get arcing and that is what caused the burning. Even though I reacted quickly, a small hole was burned all the way through the rubber boot and the wire coating was melted back about 1/8". I checked the other boot that was not burned and it was loose, so I tightened that one up as well.

Anyhow, I was back in business after about an hour and this was far better as I envisioned a lengthy amound of downtime when I smelled the burning.

Anyhow, since Roger knew right away what the problem was, I figured someone else who reads these posts will hit this same problem.

Bob

[BrianO]

I had the same problem this morning. I haven't called Chris yet (It's Sunday).
I ended up burning about 1" of insulation. I cut the end off and replaced it with another crimp connector. The wire is long enough to reach, but I'll be calling on Monday to see if I can get a replacement wire and boot. Maybe this should be on the checklist for delivery.

I've been using it for about 6 Months and all of a sudden it just happened. The only thing that's changed is I registered for this forum :-)

[BillK]

Wow. When I was insulating my steam boiler, I ran across the exact same thing. My machine was new, and the loose connection had not yet caused a problem. I posted this as a note to my comments on what I did to insulate my boiler, and I thought it was a one-off situation. It clearly isn't a one-off situation.

I bought my machine in August of this year. When were these other two machines purchased?

[BrianO]

I ordered on April 25 and I think it shipped without delay. So early May.

Incidentally it's a very foul smell.

[admin]

This sounds like something everyone should check for the next time they have the covers off. Though after 2 years I am probably safe. They must have made mine before they hired the new apprentice crimper.

I have similar guage wires with crimp connections that go from a jumper block to the high current side of relays in my house heater. These are for 25kW coils that kick in when it gets too cold for the heat pump. I see this same issue there. I have about a dozen wires or so in this area and I seem to "lose" at least one a year. In my case I've seen this happen either when the crimp wasn't tight enough to begin with or when the wire gets a little corroded between the end of the insulation and where the wire goes into the crimp connector. I assume this is from operation in a humid environment.

[BobG]

Mine happened when the machine was 6 months old. It is now 1 year and 3 months old and hasn't happened since I fixed the problem. I haven't taken the covers off in quite awhile...

Bob G.

[GentleGiant]

I have similar guage wires with crimp connections that go from a jumper block to the high current side of relays in my house heater. These are for 25kW coils that kick in when it gets too cold for the heat pump. I see this same issue there. I have about a dozen wires or so in this area and I seem to "lose" at least one a year.

Holy Cow - Crimped connections for a 25kW load?

For something like that you should have a more positive connection, like screw-down terminals. I can't believe this installation is to code. I'd seriously advise you bring in an electrician to fix this. Either soldering or new terminals are probably called for.

And the problem on the boiler connections is just another example of "fine Italian craftsmanship". They build some wonderful parts, a few crappy ones, and put them together with little regard.

God, I wish the Japanese were making expresso machines.

[Woofy]

God, I wish the Japanese were making expresso machines.

I know of one brand of commercial machine that's made in Asia. It's sold in the USA under the Klub name. Incidentally, Klub machines DO have a reputation for bullet proof electronics and electrical. It's supposed to be a pretty decent machine, too. They're all over SE Asia in their developing coffee industry.

[BillK]

I have similar guage wires with crimp connections that go from a jumper block to the high current side of relays in my house heater. These are for 25kW coils that kick in when it gets too cold for the heat pump. I see this same issue there. I have about a dozen wires or so in this area and I seem to "lose" at least one a year.

Holy Cow - Crimped connections for a 25kW load?

For something like that you should have a more positive connection, like screw-down terminals. I can't believe this installation is to code. I'd seriously advise you bring in an electrician to fix this. Either soldering or new terminals are probably called for.

And the problem on the boiler connections is just another example of "fine Italian craftsmanship". They build some wonderful parts, a few crappy ones, and put them together with little regard.

God, I wish the Japanese were making expresso machines.

I know of no problem with properly done crimped connections, if the connector and wire gauge are properly sized to the application and the crimp has been done with an appropriate crimp tool. The problem with my machine was not with the crimp of the wire to the connector. My problem was with the lack of tight friction fit with the two parts of the connector itself.

[Pete]

Woke up to a stinky kitchen this morning. Same issue. The wire insulation was cooked back about an inch and the plastic cover was partially melted. The connector to the heating element was loose or off. After checking with Chris's I fixed the connector. Now for a coffee. :P

[chas]

Sounds like a good recommendation for everyone to check the next time they have their covers off. I never had this issue with my old S1 but I've never checked the connectors on the VII.

They say Italians are lovers. Maybe some days they just don't have the strength to work the crimping tool!

[bbqnut]

Looks like I may be in there this weekend for some 3-way valve and/or flow meter work. Might as well check for any loose wires while I am at it.

[Pete]

Just want to encourage checking these connectors. I didn't have time when I fixed the black wire connector so I went back in later and found the white lead to the boiler was also loose. I think the black plastic cover was the only thing holding it in place. Sprung spring clips.