The S1 Cafe - Helping Your Espresso Dreams Become Reality

chas

This is where it attaches on a plumbed in V2. However, I am not sure whether this spot exists on a Mini. Perhaps another mini owner can let you know. s1plumb.png If your mini does NOT have the mechanical pre-infusion device installed on the left side of the brew head then there will be a bolt blocki...

chas

I don't personally have a solution for you. However, your proposed idea won't work with the S1. When powered on, the S1 always starts in its Standby state. So controlling a power outlet box via any automated method doesn't do anything. When you press the Standby button to turn on the S1 you are mome...

chas

FYI, that's not a water line. That's the power cable.

BTW: I'd just leave the water lines alone unless/until you start to have problems.

chas

I hope that does the trick for you though I concur that it doesn't make much sense given where the mineral build-up is located. My only thoughts are that either something above the pump is very slowly dripping down onto that side of the pump or else there is a very small hairline crack in the pump h...

chas

That's definitely not good. There is so much scale in the photo I can't tell where the leak is. The normally place is the area between the pump and the motor due to leaking bearings. A leak in that location can also get into the motor and ruin it's bearings as well. You should remove the pump and ch...

chas

If you're not careful bits of Teflon tape can break off and eventually clog the lines. I usually try tightening nuts without teflon first and only go back and add it if the connection leaks. But if you're careful, no problems. Glad to hear that you're up and running. Was it the newer short, stubby o...

chas

Based on your measurements the temp sensor is definitely bad.

chas

Did you check out the resistance scale in this post? http://s1cafe.com/viewtopic.php?f=57&t=2299#p24390 Your results should be pretty close to what is shown in this table. Plus the sensor is not really intended for use much above normal boiler operating temperatures. If you put fire to it you ma...

chas

Yeah, they do that. I bought a small bag of waterproof crimp connectors when I had my S2 after the 2nd occurrence. The first time it happened on my machine the wire actually melted through, then it bent over, touched the chassis, and blew the fuse. The problem is the combination of heat and humidity...

chas

If you read what the manual says about that alarm, it indicates that the temperature probe has either opened or shorted. That's always a possibility. However, the way they determine that alarm could also mean the triac is shot. Also, there is a resettable thermal breaker on top of the boiler (red bu...

chas

19-20-21 mean different things depending on whether they're on solid or flashing. Which are you getting?

chas

Sixfootmexican wrote:Yes, the total value of the part was $0.51.

That sure beats 150 bucks!

chas

Were you able to just get the part you needing without buying a whole new pump?

chas

If that turned out OK but before you order a new controller board, there is one more thing to check. Check that the control signal wire between the controller board and the steam boiler triac is good and that it hasn't come unplugged from the controller board.

chas

: PT1000 RTD Temp Sensor Chart.jpg (133.56 KiB) Viewed 12638 times

chas

Currently I get no power to the steam boiler or thermal fuse after the group is heated, though this has been intermittent in the past. I've swapped the triacs and the group boiler still heated. I swapped the power leads on the triacs and the group triac heated the steam boiler, and later swapped th...

chas

Typically the upgrades were performed by returning the control board to CCS and then having the upgraded board mailed back. For your option to be successful someone with an older machine not eligible for an upgrade would have to have paid retail for a new board and kept their old one. You may get lu...

chas

I finally troubleshot and fixed my water leak which resulted in water coming out of the 3-way outlet and the group even when the Dream was unplugged. Since the only path for the water to get through those locations is through the 3-way valve, it had to be that. And since it happened even when the un...

chas

The main issue is hardness. The water entering the machine needs to be less than 3 grains of hardness or 55ppm. (Otherwise, internal mineral deposits will build up quickly.) If you pick a water than is harder than this you will need to add one of those small in-tank softener cartridges. This issue w...

chas

Sounds like the solenoid valve for the hot water either has some mineral deposits in it or it's gotten sticky. You'll need to open it up give it a good clean out. For most things the S1 is a breeze to work on. You've hit the one part that is a bit of a pain to get at. Note: Since the leak is happeni...

chas

I think Steve is in Hong Kong so there may be a short delay in him getting back to you due to time/date differences but he is very responsive in general. The gaskets drop ship USPS from Hong Kong but get here pretty quickly in spite of the delay in US customs. IN my case it took two days from Hong K...

chas

I have found the US FluidoTech folks to be very helpful on the phone; my suggestion is that you just call them and I believe that they will help you out with either parts or a replacement pump. Thanks for the suggestion. I'll give it a go in the AM. I should prolly order a new gasket for the group ...

chas

You have now joined an elite group of first time failures. Since this forum has been around for 13 years new comers to this "club" are getting farther apart. A number of folks have had issues with the rotary pump but they've all been seal and bearing related.

chas

Based on the prices I saw on their website, I wouldn't feel too beholden to them and they have nothing to do with S1Cafe.com. That's on me.

chas

Does your machine use a Procon or a Fluid-o-tech pump? They used to use Procon but switched to Fluid-o-tech at some point due to problems with the Procons.

Also, if you see the spare part you are looking for on the cafeparts.com page, then it must be a different part than I thought from your photos.

chas

This appears to be the pressure adjustment valve that screws into the rotary pump. According to the LaSpaziale Parts Manual this is considered part of the pump and is not sold separately. However, it is certainly worth a call to Chris Coffee to see if there is anyway to purchase this part by itself ...

chas

https://www.chriscoffee.com/2_Hole_Steam_Tip_p/ot0980sv.htm 2HoleSteamTip The main problem with this option is that it is intended for the "no burn" steam arm which is not stock. Plus the cost of shipping and VAT added to get it to the UK. There ought to be a part source somewhere in the ...

chas

Not from me. I don't have one.

chas

I just checked to see if there was a new version of Dream software available. There's not. The latest version is 1.23 which has been out for a year. However, the Chris Coffee website now has a Dream Parts Manual that you can download here: https://www.chriscoffee.com/v/vspfiles/manuals/DREAM_DREAM_%...

chas

I use the LM GS/3 as my "daily driver" even though I also have an S1 Dream I use mostly for documentation and test purposes. I decided it was time the other day to drain the GS/3 boilers which is easy on the GS/3. I also did a backflush. Apparently the drain / refill process dislodged some...

chas

Unless the machine is new enough that is has a fanless SSR....

chas

I wouldn't think that could cause the SSR to blow since the temp sensor signal goes to the controller board and not directly to the SSR. However, your description sure sounds like something fried the SSR.

chas

It's hard to be much help unless you can post a recording of the noise. If it's the OPV it would have nothing to do with the fact that you adjusted the pump to 9 bar. That might have a modest effect on how fast water flows into the steam boiler in order to refill it but not on the actual boiler pres...

chas

At this point I am not sure if you still have a functioning SSR or not. However, I am still concerned about the temp sensor. Just fitting isn't enough. It has to be the type highlighted in the graphic below and have this exact response curve or it's not going to work. Also, you've probably figured t...

chas

It almost sounds like the fuse fused to the fuse holder!

chas

The fuse by the power cord should be a glass cylinder with a metal cap on each end. For a good fuse you should see a thin wire through the glass that spans between the two end caps. If you see a wire but it has a hole in the middle or if you see no wire at all, you need to replace that fuse. I don't...

chas

You can't mess with success but that's a bit strange. The way the water level sensor works is that when water touches the sensor rod, a small current flows from the rod through the water to the grounded boiler chassis. This is why you can't use distilled water because it is the minerals in tap or bo...

chas

Does the steam pressure go up to a specific point in the red and then stop? If so what pressure does it go to? I am surprised with that current pressure kludge that the controller board doesn't throw an alarm. It is supposed to be able to tell when the temp sensor is open or shorted. It sounds like ...

chas

I've now switched the terminals on the SSR and indeed the group is heating up and then switches power to the steam boiler. However, the brew pressure dial on the front of the machine which would normally show 9 bar when pulling a shot, is for some reason creeping up to around 5 bar while I'm sittin...

chas

I've now switched the terminals on the SSR and indeed the group is heating up and then switches power to the steam boiler. However, the brew pressure dial on the front of the machine which would normally show 9 bar when pulling a shot, is for some reason creeping up to around 5 bar while I'm sittin...

chas

It almost sounds to me like you may just have the two control cables reversed where they plug into the SSR module. If that does the trick you may want to use the front panel control to disable the steam boiler until you get it correctly rewired. The previous owner has bypassed the thermal breaker wh...

chas

TUBO DA CONTATORE A CALDAIA VIVALDI

Google translate says that means "Vivaldi counter-boiler tube".

You can find this toward the back of the parts manual.

chas

The M8 control signal with 0V would keep it's SSR Off whereas a 14V control signal turns it's SSR on. You didn't say if you measured these with the S1 plugged in but in standby or whether it was in some other mode. However, if plugged in and in Standby they both should read 0V. If M7 is reading 14V ...

chas

Have you checked page 12 of the parts manual? It looks like part # 7539 from your description.

http://s1cafe.com/s1v2/V2%20Manuals/RIC ... %20NEW.pdf

chas

Great. Glad to hear it. When taking off the old one, did you see signs of anything that might have caused the failure? That part rarely fails. The most likely issue with that part happens after a year or more of operation - unless the design has been improved. The nylon insulator can shrink just sli...

chas

Is CCS overnighting you a new part?

chas

Good news. Worst case Chris Coffee can overnight you a replacement part tomorrow and you'll be up and running on Tuesday. But first let's see if your current sensor is really bad. The sensor probe cannot touch metal. There can only be a current path through the water to the grounded boiler shell for...

chas

BTW: The water level sensor on the Dreams is a bit different than what is shown in the photo I attached. On the ones I have seen, the wire connects via a screw thingee rather than it being a slide on connector as shown in the original photo. Functionally, it's the same however.

: dream.png (347.33 KiB) Viewed 16683 times

chas

Just loosen the top nut, leaving the bottom one alone. The top nut cinches a nylon sleeve against the sides of the sensor holding it in place. With that nut loosened a bit, you should be able to pull the water level sensor up and out.

chas

No luck on the Chris Coffee FB page, eh? At least I assume that was your post I saw there yesterday. When you first power on the Dream, the pump should come on and the solenoid that allows the flow of water into the steam boiler should click on. When the pump and the solenoid come on simultaneously ...

chas

FYI, perhaps a newer member has more recently had the problem and will respond. However, this particular thread is over 5 years old and none of the original posters has been on the forum for quite some time.

chas

A lot of people have posted photos of their S1's on this Forum over the years. I think we can safely say yours gets the award for ugliest steam boiler! It is interesting that you are not getting overflow issues (assuming you aren't) since there seems to be no wire connected to the water level sensor...

chas

As we're in the topic, how often do you backflush guys? Currently I'm backflushing with cafiza once a week, in a two coffee per day consumption. Once a month I disassembly the shower and dispersion disc and clean them. Actually that's completely off this topic. You should try here where backflushin...

chas

Based on your description of where it is leaking, it sounds like the opposite side of the machine from where the tank is. It sounds more like you may have dislodged some gunk during cleaning that got caught up in the solenoid valve that switches between group and three-way valve. You might start by ...

chas

I don't own a mini so I can help you with photos. However, the pressure of the brew boiler is meaningless unless you are pulling a shot. If it's 9bar when pulling a shot, it doesn't really matter what it reads at any other time.

chas

I see from the video that your steam pressure is about 2.1 bar. It should be running about 1.2-1.3 bar so I am not surprised that the pressure release valve is kicking in(if that's what it is.) I assume the steam is coming from the pressure relief valve though I can't tell from the video. If so and ...

chas

My only comment based on watching your video is that you typically have to hold the shot buttons in for 0.5-1s before the press "takes" and the solenoids kick in. You did not seem to be be pressing the buttons that long. On the other hand that is probably not the issue. Others have had a p...

chas

Most of the electrical components such as the motor, heater elements, controller board, and solenoids show separate part numbers for 110v and 220V versions. However, the parts list only shows one part for the triac board so I am guessing that if you can find a local source for one in Europe it will ...

chas

The fan plugs into the Triac board. Usually when the board fails it's due to the triac itself. However, I suppose other parts could also fail on the Triac board which might affect the fan operation as well. If you haven't already swapped the triac boards you can always start by unplugged the cable f...

chas

BTW: In order to minimize the current draw in 20A mode, the group boiler heats up before the steam boiler even turns on. That way you don't have a 10-15 minute period where both boilers are drawing current constantly. Therefore, the unit is normally on for 10-15 minutes before the controller board t...

chas

It sounds like the triac board to me. Since both triac boards are identical, you can swap them or just swap the wires if they are long enough. If the triac is shorted on, you will now have the problem with the coffee boiler rather than with the steam boiler. Then you will know to order a new triac b...

chas

You can even get the mini's controller board upgraded but it obviously doesn't get you preinfusion.It does get you the remaining advanced features. In either case it's the same software but the controller boards for the two machines have a hardwired jumper that tells the software which machine it is...

chas

The information on the PIC controller model number is good to know. However, the easier way to find out if you have the proper controller board is to unplug the machine and then watch the front panel when you plug it back it. Either 3 green or 3 yellow lamps will blink once. If that happens then you...

chas

The main rule of thumb I have seen is that you should oversize the transformer by 3x. In this case that would mean a transformer capable of supplying about 6000w.

chas

The water level probe is just a metal rod used to measure the point at which electricity is conducted to the grounded sides of the steam boiler through the water. Normally when you buy a replacement probe you get a really long rod that you then cut to the desired length for your required fill point....

chas

chas

There are two nuts on the back side - one for each small steam tube and then a larger nut and bolt that fasten the gauge to the chassis. Easy job.

chas

Looks like the meter. This failure mode is usually because the meter took some kind of hit. Until you get around to replacing it, just subtract 1.35 bar from all your readings.

chas

It looked like your group pressure is going up to 14psi. The expansion valve is supposed to be set to start opening at 12psi. If that is set correctly you should never see 14psi on your meter. While the pressure is that high it's a good time to reset the expansion valve, then you can lower the pump ...

chas

It looks like a strip of black tape with a red line on it that protects the plastic behind it until you are ready to install the LaSpaziale badge that is supposed to be there. Could very well be a replacement.

chas

BTW: Can you post a photo of that red stripe you mentioned that is where the LaSpaz logo normally is? I am really curious what that looks like.

chas

Yes, I did. Sorry about that!

chas

If you didn't have a V2 controller board no lights would blink when you plug in the machine, so you are good to go there. 14-16 are green and indicate V2 mode. 17-19 are yellow and indicate V2 mode. 20-21 are red but have nothing to do with mode indication. When in V2 mode all the control and functi...

chas

What are you shooting for? 1.5oz in 30s sounds pretty good to me.

chas

I'm scratching my head as to the origin of your machine. If it was made in 2008 then it was made after Chris Coffee had been selling the V2 for at least a year. If so it should have the new controller board. Your machine also has the old style temperature sensors on both boilers. That feature was re...

chas

Water chemistry is a lot more involved that just correcting for hardness. I wonder if your water has something else going on. Have you checked the pH? Is the water naturally soft or has it been softened? I grew up on a brackish river. Due to the salt content of the river, the local marinas had to in...

chas

Maybe they need to break down and provide you with an old style sensor. Those have a metal cylinder that sticks down into the water. Then the sensor is pushed down to the bottom of the cylinder and tacked into place with silicone rubber. That way the sensor never gets wet and the problem goes away!

chas

Let me address some of your concerns, most of which are my personal opinion: 1) The Dream is now doing great. It initially had some growing pains and required some hardware and software changes based on the initial units shipped. The reason you don't see this reflected in the Forum is that most folk...

chas

Since this is an S1 forum and not a LaSpaziale forum, it's probably an apples to oranges comparison even though there is probably some part commonality. If you were trouble shooting an S1 I would say you have two problems. Since you obviously have enough boiler pressure to blow the OPV and you have ...

chas

With the machine on, press and hold the Boiler button for at least 10 seconds.

The three yellow lamps blinking once when first plugged in means that the Controller board is operating in V2 mode. This is normal.

chas

Everything you stated is appropriate functionality up to the point that your story ended. The three yellow lights mean the dual mode controller board is in VII mode. Is that correct or should it be in V1 mode? The easiest way to tell is whether your front panel temperature increments are 1C(V2) or 5...

chas

Got the new $200 (ouch!) pump installed. Tons of crump in the housing despite there having been a drain hole pre-drilled. Thanks for the help! The first problem, of course, is that those pumps should not leak. After that, the problem is that the pre-drilled hole at the front of the motor is too sma...

chas

The caveat I should have added is that the GS/3 damn well better be a significant improvement over the GS/3 given the price. With care and feeding it could be my last espresso machine. Since I am now retired, the price range of the S1 might be the max I could spend if I ever do need another machine....

chas

I have owned an S1V1, S1V2, and a Dream. I actually still have the Dream though it's a loaner. My main machine is the GS/3 and I would never go back to the S1 after owning it even though the Dream actually has a number of improved features. 1) I Like the open front feeling of the GS/3. Having the gr...

chas

BTW: Having the clamp loose is not enough. You need to get the clamp off before the motor and pump will separate.

chas

viewtopic.php?t=2081

chas

Leak number 1 has become very common. The original S1s using copper tubing for the water connections. Now they have switched to Teflon tubing and where the Teflon mates with the metal threaded fitting a lot of leaks occur. You can try unscrewing the metal fitting and then reseating the Teflon tubing...

chas

Leak 2 is around the water level sensor. The larger hex nut on the bottom attaches the assembly to the boiler. The smaller one actually squeezes a teflon sleeve against the water level probe to lock it in place and to keep water from leaking around it. In most cases fixing this is just a matter of c...

chas

I tried the no burn steam arm on the S1 when it first came out, I reverted to full burn within days. When I purchased the GS/3, it came standard with a no burn arm. As soon as they made a full burn version available I converted. The problem I see with the design is that they take a standard full bur...

chas

In order for a silicone gasket to pay off you have to assume you will be keeping your machine long enough to change the steam boiler gasket 2 or more times. The first time you will always have the hassle of removing the stock factory gasket. I have had three S1 machines and only replaced this gasket...

chas

Most people that leave their machines on 24x7 do so because of the notion that the heating and cooling cycles from turning the machine on and off do more harm than leaving the machines on all the time. Of course, as you have found, there are other things that wear out faster when the machine is left...

chas

I believe you'd have to replace at least these parts, maybe more:

1) Controller Board
2) Three solenoid valves
3) Both boiler elements
4) Pump
5) Power cord or at least the plug
6) Not sure about the two triac boards

You'd be better off selling it and buying a 220V machine when you get there.

chas

I have no reason to believe that this also applies the the Dream but I have never seen this happen on mine either.

chas

I have posted the updated Dream and Dream T GUI Users Manual for SW v. 1.23. Recently, I noticed that the Chris Coffee website has a new La Spaziale produced manual that is both a detailed Users Manual and GUI Manual in one. I highly recommend using that one since it is all encompassing and is done ...

chas

It is interesting to see that S1 users are starting to see the same effect with their silicone gaskets that I reported seeing on my GS/3 last June. When it starts to happen I can give the gasket a thorough clean with a Cafiza soaked brush and get some more time out of it, but eventually the amount o...

chas

I have installed the latest 1.23 software on my Dream and have marked up the User interface manual with the changes needed and new photos needed. Is there anyone with a Dream T that has also updated to 1.23? I need something checked on the Tank version before I can accurately update the manual. One ...

chas

I think you're stuck with getting another copper one. On the plus side I've never heard of this happening before so odds are it won't happen to you again.

chas

Because of the way the valve is tilted vs position of the droplet shown, I couldn't tell if the water was coming out around the pin or through one of the holes above then dripping down. If it's the pin, then pushing it in and letting reseat once or twice made fix it. Otherwise you may have to remove...

chas

I am a bit confused. You say you have an S1 VII but you also state that the leak is behind the cold water tank. Does that mean you really have an S1 VII Mini?

chas

I am not in a position at the current time to update my Dream from v1.19 to v 1.20. The software change list states that they "fixed" some SD Card Read issues so it's possible that they fixed this. However, through v1.19 there was no way to just save the four profiles. Rather it saves the ...

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