Hi Folks,
I was on what I think was the original board. I have a S1 circa 2005. Other than a few original problems that I posted about, the S1 has performed remarkably well over the years. Until now! Last week, after several pours and sitting down in another room for breakfast, I returned to find hot water all over the counter, an inch deep in two drawers and in the cabinet below. I shut down the machine, turned off the water supply, and went into cleanup mode. Unfortunately I didn't take the time to see where the water was coming from. However, I think there are two clues: the water was hot, and when I turned the water supply on, but not the S1, water began leaking/pouring through the empty PF. Solenoid? I keep a close eye out, but the problem has not reappeared. If so, I would appreciate someone pointing me to a diagram which shows the the correct solenoid to replace. And, as long as I am making a repair, I would also appreciate the latest thinking on descaling the boiler, with pointers to pictures if possible. Much to my embarrassment, it has been a number of years since I did any maintenance. Even with two filters in the line, I am sure I am way overdue.
Thanks in advance.
9 Years with minimum maintenance, but it's TIME
- chas
- Vivaldi Dreamer
- Posts: 3050
- Joined: Wed Jun 02, 2004 11:52 pm
- Location: Central Maryland
- Contact:
Re: 9 Years with minimum maintenance, but it's TIME
It's highly likely that the solenoid is not your problem. There is a spring loaded plunger that keeps the valve closed when the solenoid is not energized. Turning on the solenoid pulls the plunger back. So if your solenoid was dead you wouldn't be able to turn on the water. Most likely you just need to remove the solenoid so that you can pull out the valve and clean the mineral deposits off.
Click the link below, check photo #4, the part marked with the letter A. To remove this valve you'll need to unscrew the electrical connector and the nut that holds the copper pipe for the 3-way release. Then you should be able to remove the solenoid and access the actual valve mechanism.
s1v1/S1Photos.php
After that, if you decide that you actually do need a new solenoid, Google the part number on the side. Chris Coffee wanted $90 for one. As I recall I ended up finding one for about half that which also included a valve attached. I just pulled off the solenoid and tossed the valve.
Click the link below, check photo #4, the part marked with the letter A. To remove this valve you'll need to unscrew the electrical connector and the nut that holds the copper pipe for the 3-way release. Then you should be able to remove the solenoid and access the actual valve mechanism.
s1v1/S1Photos.php
After that, if you decide that you actually do need a new solenoid, Google the part number on the side. Chris Coffee wanted $90 for one. As I recall I ended up finding one for about half that which also included a valve attached. I just pulled off the solenoid and tossed the valve.
Chas
LM GS/3 & LaSpaziale Dream v 1.25 (US 120V)
Mazzer Kony E, Customized Rocky
Hottop P/B
LM GS/3 & LaSpaziale Dream v 1.25 (US 120V)
Mazzer Kony E, Customized Rocky
Hottop P/B
- chas
- Vivaldi Dreamer
- Posts: 3050
- Joined: Wed Jun 02, 2004 11:52 pm
- Location: Central Maryland
- Contact:
Re: 9 Years with minimum maintenance, but it's TIME
Here's one thread about descaling your boilers. If you use the Search feature you may find others. Before starting you'll need to order and have on hand new gaskets for each boiler.
viewtopic.php?f=57&t=872&p=14698&hilit= ... ing#p14698
viewtopic.php?f=57&t=872&p=14698&hilit= ... ing#p14698
Chas
LM GS/3 & LaSpaziale Dream v 1.25 (US 120V)
Mazzer Kony E, Customized Rocky
Hottop P/B
LM GS/3 & LaSpaziale Dream v 1.25 (US 120V)
Mazzer Kony E, Customized Rocky
Hottop P/B